That was my original plan, but my way seemed easier once I got my drain
working.   I already had to pull the bunk top / battery hatch assembly out,
the carpeting and drawer.   My model year had a plywood sole on fiberglass
stringers.   The sole consists of three pieces, the center one extended from
the bilge access to the companionway and was fastened to the decorative wood
centerboard shroud / step support as a single subassembly.   This was also
removed to access the hose clamp for the centerboard pennant tube /
companionway scupper so I could remove the black composting jello from my
messy wren nest.  

The shop guys hadn't properly fastened it, so it was easier to remove the
wood shroud and sole plate as a single unit.  Since this was out I had a
large open channel extending from the bilge access hatch aft to the
companionway.   With the drawer and bunk top already out it was actually
easy to run 8' of bilge hose from the new pump through the gap between the
stringer and the cockpit bulkhead at the companionway, and then up the gap
between the cockpit liner and the cabin liner on port.  There was already an
electrical cable running there for the outboard generator, and plenty of
space for the bilge hose.  Once I threaded it up to the cockpit under the
seats I could add a couple elbows to create a spigot. 

I had to drill a single 3/8" hole through the inboard port stringer and
install a grommet, so I could run some wire from the bilge under the forward
battery compartment and up to the terminals.    The advantage is I can
actually see water running, instead of just hearing the pump.   

Total project list was 8 foot of bilge hose, 2 SS hose clamps,  one bilge
pump with internal float switch, a few feet of marine 16 gauge wire, a
grommet to prevent chafe, two eye connectors and two heat shrink butt
connectors, one alligator clip for the non switched positive lead (so I
could manually fasten it to the battery in emergency), a few screws, one
nipple elbow with a pipe thread on the other end, and a second elbow to
screw in and create a 'faucet'.  The disadvantage would be if the center
cockpit drain was stoppered.  So far I haven't had to do that, but at least
I'll know I'm taking on water.   I'll see if it causes any problems when
loaded for cruising on Erie.   Fingers crossed.     

Anybody know how dry weight compares to half and full load for this boat?   
I assume the factory boot stripe is a safe point for full load.   I'm
guessing 'half weight' as day sailing mode, so motor and fuel, a few gallons
water, the crew, but no provisions, bedding, cookware or clothing.   That 
leaves about 2" of bottom paint showing.      

Alex

 







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Alex Cole
S/V Lark
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