Brooks. As always, I enjoy your responses. Thanks for the mention of
venting. I agree, the floor pan is an important part of that. I need to
consider how to keep that ventilation in place when the seal is not needed.
I am with you on the other points. Sailing should be fun and easy.
Emergencies should be short and recoverable. And last, any work you have to
do should be part of the fun, not forced on you by avoidable problems
associated with the rigging, sails or boat set up.

Take care. Keep it easy and thanks

Jay

--------------------------------------------------
From: "thebooker" <bridges.brooks at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 8:33 AM
To: <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Cockpit Waterproofing response to Mike

> Jay,
>
> We're in very close agreement on the 175.
>
> First, I'm in my 70's and now want my sailing as pain and drama free as
> possible. With my roller furling 130 jib, roller furling main, motor lift
> (for my 22 lb Torqeedo - so heavy 22 lb) this goal is 95% achieved.
> Installing a tiller pilot will bring me to sailing nirvana. I can bike
> right
> up to my boat slip in 5 minutes and love getting away from dock as fast as
> any motor boater.
>
> Second, I sailed with a 175 just enough to know that life for me is too
> short to be constantly dealing with a sail so big and heavy and that, in
> my
> area, can be fully unfurled roughly 10% of the time.
>
> I tried a smaller, non furling jib for one season - from an Etchells 22,
> 100
> or 110%. I loved it. The boat went very well upwind and off wind and
> tacked
> quickly and easily (I also single hand most of the time). The two things I
> didn't like were (1) having to stuff it in a deck bag after sailing (bent
> over for several minutes is a back killer) and (2) in higher winds I had
> to
> deal with an overpowered boat or take it down. Even in light winds, the
> very
> clean leading edge (just a wire) seemed to give back a lot of the power
> loss
> due to smaller area.
>
> Gary Hoyt says the clean leading edge can make a jib 40% more powerful
> than
> a main the same area because of turbulence caused by the mast. Doesn't
> take
> much imagination to view a partially furled 175 as a sail behind a mast to
> me. This makes me wonder if my unfurled 100% jib was delivering more like
> a
> 175 furled to 130 size. No question that the furled sail reduces
> effectiveness of unfurled part.
>
> Also, from my brief exposure to aerodynamics I learned that a circular
> cross
> section (like a mast or partially furled jib) has 10 times the wind
> resistance of an airfoil of same thickness.
>
> My compromise was a 130 furling from Stan. Can sail unfurled in higher
> winds
> than 175 and, when furled to same area, have a smaller roll at leading
> edge.
> I also think the dacron is a bit lighter than 175 and that, combined the
> smaller sail area makes it quite a bit lighter.  I'm adding thin white,
> split tubing that just fits around shrouds to reduce friction when
> tacking.
>
> Previous owner also bought a Univera Power Sail (nylon, roller furling
> genoa) which I can hook up very quickly. I have jib sheets attached with a
> soft shackle I made (an interesting project) which lets me quickly switch
> jib sheets to UPS if I want. Does not point for beans but great for
> reaches
> and broad reaches.
>
> *************************************************************
>
> Now, your cockpit. (My Nonsuch 30 was considered unsuitable for blue water
> almost solely because of  its large, seat-a-crowd cockpit with
> insufficient
> drainage.)
>
> I think you should think about ventilation for cabin and rear lazzrerette
> if
> you block the underseat openings. I suspect they help keep R22's mildew
> and
> mold free.  So, maybe design them to be fairly easily removed when not
> needed. Or to take one of those 4" diameter circular screw in deck hole
> thingamabobs (I love nautical talk) Yes!
>
> If you do block them, I agree you need drainage. I'm thinking two, say 4"
> diameter pipes going through lazzerette on either side, level with cockpit
> floor, and under seats would dump a lot of water fast. Don't know what
> material would work best with fiberglass. Thinking more, you may want them
> nearer the centerline so if knocked down, they don't fill rather than
> drain
> the cockpit. In fact, you may want a one-way valve in each - at least a
> flap
> on outside.
>
> Safe fun sailing whatever you do!  Keep us posted.
>
> Brooks
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> Brooks Bridges
> 1986, Recycled 2006 "Changes"
> Cambridge, MD
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Cockpit-Waterproofing-tp52824p52839.html
> Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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