I thought the screw and plywood are overhead-is the screw accessible?

Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)

On Fri, Aug 2, 2024 at 5:30 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> After you free the chainplate from the plywood, you will be able to pull
> it out backwards thru the inspection hole.  If the part above the roof is
> so bent that you can’t straighten it enough to fit thru the hole; then, cut
> it off.
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 2, 2024, at 5:03 PM, Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Roger, how did you remove the old chainplate?  Did you just cut it off?
> >
> > Michael McKay (mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com)
> >
> >
> >> On Fri, Aug 2, 2024 at 5:00 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Mike,
> >>
> >> If you do it my way; then, you only have to drill the hole for the
> Beckson
> >> inspection port in the inner cabin wall.  No holes in the cabin ceiling!
> >> From the hole in the cabin wall, you will be able to remove the old
> chain
> >> plate.  The new chain plate will just be a straight piece of SS bar
> stock
> >> and will use the same hole thru the cabin roof as the OEM chainplate.
> The
> >> new chainplate will be thru bolted thru the outer cabin side wall.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> 1978. Sanford, MI
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>>> On Aug 2, 2024, at 4:46 PM, mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Roger and Todd,
> >>>
> >>> Before I start cutting holes in my boat, I want to make sure I
> understand
> >>> the full process, so please let me know if I am misunderstanding
> >> anything.
> >>>
> >>> The original chainplate is bent in an L-shape and screwed to plywood
> >> inside
> >>> the ceiling of the cabin with one or two wood screws.  To remove the
> old
> >>> chainplate, you need to open a hole in the ceiling liner.  In Todd's
> >> case,
> >>> he also needed to open some of adjacent sidewall of the cabin to gain
> >>> sufficient clearance to extract the old chainplate.  Roger, did you
> need
> >> to
> >>> do that also, or did you use a different approach?
> >>>
> >>> In any event, the hole in the ceiling needs to be repaired afterwards.
> >> Was
> >>> there much difficulty in achieving a clean repair of the ceiling liner?
> >>>
> >>> A second hole of the correct size for the deckplate inspection port is
> >>> drilled in the inside sidewall liner below the chainplate opening.  A
> >>> backing plate (1/4" plywood?) is epoxied inside of the outer layer of
> the
> >>> cabin sidewall.  The new chainplate is through-bolted to the backing
> >> plate.
> >>> Finally, the deckplate is installed to the inside liner of the cabin as
> >> an
> >>> inspection port.
> >>>
> >>> Is the above description correct?
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> Mike
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >> ROGER
> >>> PIHLAJA
> >>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:59 PM
> >>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> You use something like a hole saw to make a 4-1/2" ID hole in the cabin
> >>> liner.  This will expose the plywood core and the old chainplate.
> Remove
> >>> the old chainplate and any plywood that's in the way, install a new
> >>> chainplate made of straight SS bar stock, (Note that this new
> chainplate
> >>> goes thru the original hole in the cabin roof)  and thru bolt it thru
> the
> >>> outer cabin wall.  Then, install the Beckson inspection plate.  Easy
> >> peasy,
> >>> it takes about 30 minutes to do each chainplate.  You can easily do
> all 4
> >>> inner chainplates in an afternoon.  Other than two round head machine
> >> screws
> >>> + fender washers on the side of the cabin at each chain plate and 4
> >> Beckson
> >>> inspection plates in the cabin, the  installation will look stock.
> But,
> >> you
> >>> will be able to inspect/repair/replace the 4 inner chainplates whenever
> >> you
> >>> want.
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>
> >>> ________________________________
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>> mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 12:40 PM
> >>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> Roger, how did you remove the existing chainplates?  Did you have to
> >> open up
> >>> the cabin liner?
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> >> ROGER
> >>> PIHLAJA
> >>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 11:47 AM
> >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> Hi All,
> >>>
> >>> One of the first things I replaced when I bought my boat back in 1987
> >> were
> >>> the four lower chainplates.  There is no way to inspect the factory OEM
> >>> lower chainplates.  Sooner or later, water is going to infiltrate into
> >> the
> >>> plywood core, causing it to rot.  This is easily fixed by installing 4
> >>> Beckson 4-1/2" white screw-out deck plates (Beckson P/N: DP40-W,
> Defender
> >>> Marine C/N: 941619, $17.36 each + S&H) thru the cabin liner.  With
> these
> >>> inspection plates installed, you can thru bolt the lower chainplates
> thru
> >>> the outer cabin wall and easily inspect them whenever you wish.  I do
> not
> >>> trust wood screws into the plywood core for this heavily loaded
> >> component,
> >>> especially not when the fix is so easy.  Just bite the bullet and do
> this
> >>> upgrade.  You'll never have to worry about it again.
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>> 1978  Sanford, MI
> >>> ________________________________
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Graham
> >>> Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> >>> Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2024 10:16 AM
> >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> The chain plate is a bent stainless-steel tang. Mine was held in place
> >> with
> >>> a single screw into the plywood core of the cabin top. I have attached
> a
> >>> picture of the chainplate. Knowing the width, you should be able to
> >>> calculate pretty accurately where the screw would be. Removing a
> section
> >> of
> >>> the liner should allow you to remove the screw without needing to
> create
> >> a
> >>> large hole.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Graham Stewart
> >>> Rhodes 22
> >>> Agile, 1976
> >>> ________________________________
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>> Michael McKay <mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> >>> Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2024 4:59 PM
> >>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How to replace forward lower chainplates?
> >>>
> >>> Hi Rhodies,
> >>>
> >>> I damaged one of my forward lower chainplates and need to replace it.
> >>>
> >>> It  is evidently attached to something between the inner and outer
> >>> fiberglass skins, so my plan would be to cut an access hole from the
> >> inside.
> >>>
> >>> Can you provide any guidance about how best to approach this project?
> >>>
> >>> Thank you!
> >>>
> >>> Mike McKay
> >>> S/V Liber 2006/2108
> >>> Allatoona Lake, GA
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Michael McKay
> >>> (630) 209-2054 (m)
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>> -------------- next part --------------
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> >>> Desc: Chainplate.JPG
> >>> URL:
> >>> <http://rhodes22.or/
> >>>
> >>
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> >> http://r
> >>>
> >>
> hodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240730/05e2d6ca/attachment
> >>> .jpe>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
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