I'm surprised that Slim (Steve A.) hasn't weighed in on the subject yet. He consulted with Stan when his lower chainplates were torn completely out of the cabin top. My repair was similar to the one Stan suggested to Steve.

I will try to attach the pics he sent me last year.

While Steve had the repairs done at a local boatyard  and did not know what material they use for the backing block, I used oak and thickened epoxy as the adhesive. I also used a longer tang with three holes instead of two.

INTERESTING NOTE THOUGH: General boats often makes the having pieces of standing rigging is bullet proof. But in the case of Steve's accident, the forestay broke and I and the whole rig came down.

Todd T.


DSC00254.jpeg

DSC00253.jpeg

DSC00256.jpeg

On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:00 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thank you Graham
>
> On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 8:31 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > I had to replace the inner chain plates on my 76 R22 - or at least I
> > thought I had to. Mine were loose and that worried me. As the chainplate
> > was just a stainless steel tang that went through the deck I really could
> > not tell what was holding it or how it might be secured. So I went in
> from
> > the deck side with a grinter and removed everything down to the cabin
> > liner.
> > After grinding out the deck and core I realized that the chainplate was
> > only attached to the underside core of the deck with a single 1/2" screw
> > which, of course, was completely loose.. The core itself seemed dry and
> > solid.
> >
> > My advice, without the benefit  of being able to open your pictures, is
> to
> > go slow. I have attached a picture of the chain plate after removal so
> you
> > can see what you are dealing with. Access to the chainplate is much less
> > destructive if you reach it through the inner liner rather than from
> above.
> > By removing small sections of the liner you should be able to find the
> > screw and at the same time determine the condition of the core. If the
> core
> > is good, you can fasten the chainplate more securely and patch the liner
> > and be done with it. I didn't do that . The second picture shows what the
> > deck looked like after I ground out the old chainplate.
> >
> > I decided that I didn't want to replace the chainplate as it was
> originally
> > installed. It seemed to me like a system that would inevitably loosen and
> > probably leak. I filled the cavity I created in the deck with an epoxy
> mix
> > and then faired and repaired the deck. Doing so created a sizable area of
> > solid epoxy mix through which I installed a ring bolt with shoulders - I
> > can't remember what it was called but attach a picture. I made large
> > washers from composite decking by using a hole saw.The picture shows the
> > composite washer on both sides of the deck but in the end I didn't need
> the
> > upper one. In this way the bolt was attached in a straight line with the
> > shroud. The bolt went through the solid epoxy fill and was sealed with
> > butyl tape. It seems very secure to me and has no wiggle.
> >
> > I was intending originally to attach new chainplates to the cabin sides
> but
> > decided to replace the ports with a single piece of acrylic so there was
> no
> > place to put the chainplates. In the meantime I inserted a new
> > plywood/epoxy core between the outer skin and liner along the sides of
> the
> > cabin to provide for increased strength for the chainplates. I now know
> > that wasn't necessary but it can't hurt in my case given that I
> > dramatically increased the size of the port openings. I am telling you
> all
> > this so you won't be too confused by the pictures
> >
> > So, if you want to replace the chainplates, you might want to consider
> this
> > use of shoulder bolts once you know the condition of the deck core.
> >
> >
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Agile 76
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 12:39 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks Todd for your help and diagram.  How many more sails till this
> > pulls
> > > apart?  ;)
> > >
> > > Can I get by by attaching two metal plates above and below the deck
> after
> > > resealing to keep moisture out or is it too compromised already? the
> > plates
> > > would the fiberglass mess.  I am just a casual lake sailor so I'm not
> > sure
> > > how much I want to get into this kind of project.
> > >
> > > Have you or anyone else on the list done this repair?  I'm a total
> newbie
> > > to this kind of project.
> > >
> > > Matt W
> > >
> > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 11:15 AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Matt,
> > > >
> > > > You may have no choice but to pull the hatch; which will aid in the
> > > repair,
> > > > replace the core, epoxy, glass etc.
> > > >
> > > > This quick sketch doesn't account for the hatch being so close to the
> > > > chainplate but it shows how the cabintop is constructed.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Todd T
> > > >
> > > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:03 PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Matt,
> > > > >
> > > > > There is a right way which involves a ton of work, and there is an
> > > > > adequate way.
> > > > > The hard way is cutting away the cabin top removing any loose, wet,
> > > > rotted
> > > > > or dry rotted core material. Then epoxy in new plywood core,
> re-glass
> > > the
> > > > > cabin top, fair paint.
> > > > > The alternative is to cut an access hole in the cabin wall. (Cut
> the
> > > > > chainplate with a die grinder to pull it out from above or leave it
> > in
> > > > > place). Then put the chainplate on the outside of the cabin wall
> and
> > a
> > > > > backing plate inside.
> > > > >
> > > > > But looking at your pics, you may have no alternative that to cut
> > away
> > > > the
> > > > > cabintop.
> > > > >
> > > > > Todd T.
> > > > >
> > > > > PS. I'll try to make a couple of pencil sketches so you know what
> is
> > > > > inside.
> > > > >
> > > > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:30 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >> Hello everyone,
> > > > >>
> > > > >> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward
> inner
> > > > >> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past
> and
> > > > made
> > > > >> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what
> is
> > > > going
> > > > >> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
> > > > >> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep
> > water
> > > > out
> > > > >> by sealing up the deck around them?
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Many thanks for your help,
> > > > >> Matt Wilson
> > > > >> Hornblower II
> > > > >> White Bear Lake, MN
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > > >>
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