FYI when working with epoxy I always try to sand off the excess the next day before it hardens completely.

On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 10:15 AM Mark Whipple <mark at whipplefamily.com> wrote:

> I just repaired a delaminated tiller I got from Stan. I used epoxy and
> syringes made for use with epoxy. The epoxy I use is from a company in FL
> called RAKA and is pretty low viscosity - thinner than West as I recall.
>
> I laid down some wax paper (epoxy doesn't stick to it) and put the tiller
> on its side - after digging out as much of the gaps as possible. After
> mixing the epoxy I used the syringe to direct the epoxy into the gap. I
> clamped the tiller to close the gap. I think I probably used unthickened
> epoxy first to coat the surfaces and then added some silica to thicken it
> and put some of that in the gap as well.
>
> There were a number of gaps in this tiller and I also drilled out and
> filled several holes, so it took a few days to get it all done, but it
> looks pretty good now. I may drive some screws in from the bottom of the
> tiller to further reinforce where the cracks were.
>
> Mark
>
> Boston, MA
> 2000 R22 *When and If*
>
> On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 10:00 AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
>> Hi All,   My tiller handle has some delamination to the point that you
>> can see light through a gap in the wood.  I want to glue it back together
>> and then revarnish it.  I'm wondering if anyone has any good techniques for
>> getting glue into the gap.  I was thinking of trying to thin some glue and
>> injecting in with a small needle, but it needs to be pretty thin to force
>> it through such a tiny lumen.  Anyone know of a better approach?  Any word
>> glue that can be made pretty thin?
>> Thanks,   Peter
>>
>