Thanks Ric, I will also look for 3/4" as I will probably have the boat on a mooring from time to time and need some chafing protection.

On Sun, Oct 29, 2023 at 9:25 AM Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:

> I changed my chocks to handle 3/4” line about 10 years ago. I keep the
> boat on a shallow mooring in Shinnecock Bay  They were installed with 1
> 1/2” #12 wood screws. Even through heavy storms, the chocks have not shown
> any stress or damage.
> Ric
> Dadventure.
> Hampton Bays NY
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 28, 2023, at 9:03 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mitch
> >
> > Well, it's not an exact replacement for the GBI standard issue chock;
> but, a Forespar M/N: 950001  3-1/2" straight chock will work.  The toe rail
> has a fairly tight curvature up that close to the bow.  The chock has no
> curvature, so you want a fairly short one in order for it to fit on top of
> the toe rail.  West Marine has them in stock (C/N: 162149) for $9.99 each.
> These chocks require #10 flat head screws, which is still plenty strong
> enough.  Good Luck!
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 6:09 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> >
> > Awesome, that's very helpful. Do you recommend a specific size chock?
> > Thanks!!
> >
> >> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 5:07 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Mitch,
> >>
> >> I've never had to remove my bow line chocks.  So, just for snicks and
> >> grins, this afternoon, I pulled one of the fasteners to see how the
> factory
> >> attached them.  The fastener was a stainless steel 1/4" flat head X 2"
> long
> >> wood screw.  The screw was bedded in some sort of caulk and the toe
> rail is
> >> solid FRP.  When I reinstalled the screw, I used Boat Life Seal
> >> polyurethane/silicone sealant.  This bow line chock is loaded in
> >> compression and shear, not tension.  The wood screw is not likely to
> ever
> >> pull out.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> >> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 3:32 PM
> >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> >>
> >> Mitch,
> >>
> >> Yes, you can just screw the chocks into the toe rail, but don't use
> 5200.
> >> 5200 is a 'forever' adhesive.  There a very few places that I would say
> >> it's use is appropriate, and this is certainly _not_ one.  The screws
> will
> >> do the work of holding the chocks in place.
> >>
> >> Since you'd just be screwing into fiberglass, I'd argue that even a
> >> sealant isn't really necessary. But if you decide to use one, get one
> from
> >> a marine supply store, not a home store.
> >>
> >> I'd be a little generous in sizing the pilot hole for the screws.  You
> >> don't want to risk having the screws acting like wedges, and potentially
> >> splitting the toe-rail.
> >>
> >> The message about using a tap was referring to the option of drilling
> >> holes, then tapping threads, and using bolts rather than screws.  On my
> >> boat, this approach was used for jib sheet tracks and winches.  If you
> >> don't have experience tapping threads, I'd stick to wood screws.
> >> Hopefully, it goes without saying that the screws should be stainless
> steel.
> >>
> >> --Peter
> >>
> >>>> On 2023-10-28, at 08:11:19 EDT, Mitch Mitchell wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I
> >> can just
> >>> screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is no
> >> access to
> >>> the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck the line
> will
> >> rub
> >>> against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the archives talking
> >> about using
> >>> a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
>