Hi Mitch

Well, it's not an exact replacement for the GBI standard issue chock; but, a Forespar M/N: 950001  3-1/2" straight chock will work.  The toe rail has a fairly tight curvature up that close to the bow.  The chock has no curvature, so you want a fairly short one in order for it to fit on top of the toe rail.  West Marine has them in stock (C/N: 162149) for $9.99 each.  These chocks require #10 flat head screws, which is still plenty strong enough.  Good Luck!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 6:09 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

Awesome, that's very helpful. Do you recommend a specific size chock?
Thanks!!

On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 5:07 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Mitch,
>
> I've never had to remove my bow line chocks.  So, just for snicks and
> grins, this afternoon, I pulled one of the fasteners to see how the factory
> attached them.  The fastener was a stainless steel 1/4" flat head X 2" long
> wood screw.  The screw was bedded in some sort of caulk and the toe rail is
> solid FRP.  When I reinstalled the screw, I used Boat Life Seal
> polyurethane/silicone sealant.  This bow line chock is loaded in
> compression and shear, not tension.  The wood screw is not likely to ever
> pull out.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 3:32 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>
> Mitch,
>
> Yes, you can just screw the chocks into the toe rail, but don't use 5200.
> 5200 is a 'forever' adhesive.  There a very few places that I would say
> it's use is appropriate, and this is certainly _not_ one.  The screws will
> do the work of holding the chocks in place.
>
> Since you'd just be screwing into fiberglass, I'd argue that even a
> sealant isn't really necessary. But if you decide to use one, get one from
> a marine supply store, not a home store.
>
> I'd be a little generous in sizing the pilot hole for the screws.  You
> don't want to risk having the screws acting like wedges, and potentially
> splitting the toe-rail.
>
> The message about using a tap was referring to the option of drilling
> holes, then tapping threads, and using bolts rather than screws.  On my
> boat, this approach was used for jib sheet tracks and winches.  If you
> don't have experience tapping threads, I'd stick to wood screws.
> Hopefully, it goes without saying that the screws should be stainless steel.
>
> --Peter
>
> > On 2023-10-28, at 08:11:19 EDT, Mitch Mitchell wrote:
> >
> > I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I
> can just
> > screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is no
> access to
> > the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck the line will
> rub
> > against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the archives talking
> about using
> > a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.
> >
> >
>
>