OK Rick,
I’ve given the reasons why it’s desirable to anchor using a carabiner and the bow eye. These are based upon sound physics and they will improve the anchor holding or shrink the swing radius EVERY SINGLE TIME! If you want to reject it because you might trip and fall overboard, that’s your prerogative. How often do you have to set the anchor in heavy weather? Don’t you think these are the very conditions wherein better anchor holding is highly desirable? Good luck
Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 26, 2023, at 4:08 PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Roger,
>> The boat hook and carabiner are unnecessary complications. And
> complications threaten safety.
>> Regards,
>> Rick Lange
>>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 3:14 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>>> Rick,
>>>> Assuming you have a boat hook on board, you only need to thread the anchor
>> rode thru the carabiner once. After that, you use the boat hook to handle
>> the anchor rode. It’s no worse than any other time you need to be on the
>> bow handling the anchor.
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> On Oct 26, 2023, at 2:36 PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>>>> Hi Roger,
>>>>>> The problem with running or tying the anchor rode to the bow eye is that
>>> you can't safely sit in the bow pulpit and do that during heavy weather.
>>> The best thing is to first run the rode through a bow chock, tie the rode
>>> to the bow cleat, then drop the anchor from the bow rail. You can do all
>>> that sitting securely in the pulpit with your legs hanging over the edge
>> of
>>> the deck.
>>>>>> Regards,
>>>>>> Rick Lange
>>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 12:26 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> Although I can't open the attachment, my R-22 has the same single bow
>>>> cleat you describe on your boat. There are many factors that affect
>> how a
>>>> boat lies to its anchor. Factors which have a much larger effect on the
>>>> boat than the slight off-center position of the anchor rode include wind
>>>> and current direction and strength, distribution and amount of windage (
>>>> i.e. Do you have your pop top enclosure &/or boom room up? ), and
>>>> underwater configuration ( i.e. Do you have the centerboard &/or rudder
>> up
>>>> or down? ). There should be a pair of line chocks mounted port and
>>>> starboard on the toe rails up on the bow. On my boat, these line chocks
>>>> are mounted on top of the toe rail about halfway in-between the
>> stanchions
>>>> on the bow pulpit. You should run the anchor rode from the cleat thru
>> one
>>>> or the other of these line chocks. Routing the anchor rode thru these
>> line
>>>> chocks will not only bring the effective point of attachment closer to
>> the
>>>> boat's centerline on the bow, it will also help to eliminate chafing on
>> the
>>>> anchor rode and the boat. If your boat doesn't have these bow line
>> chocks;
>>>> then you should add them ASAP. they also help eliminate chafe from dock
>>>> lines.
>>>>>>>> One thing you should also consider doing is routing the anchor rode
>> thru a
>>>> locking rock-climbing carabineer. Then, attach the carabineer to the
>>>> trailering bow eye and run the anchor rode thru one of the bow line
>> chocks,
>>>> and the bow cleat. Now, the effective anchor rode attachment point is
>>>> about 2 ft closer to the water. This does good things for your anchor
>>>> scope ratio. An example will serve to illustrate my point:
>>>>>>>> Suppose you want to anchor in 10 ft of water depth. If you route your
>>>> anchor rode thru the bow chock, which is about 3 ft above the water, you
>>>> have to add 10 + 3 = 13 ft. To achieve a 7:1 scope ratio you would
>> have to
>>>> let out 13 X 7 = 91 ft of anchor rode. If you route your anchor rode
>> thru
>>>> the bow eye with a carabineer, you will have reduced the attachment
>> point's
>>>> height above the water to about 1 ft and 10 + 1 = 11 ft. Now, to
>> achieve
>>>> the same 7:1 scope ratio, you only have to let out 11 X 7 = 77 ft of
>> anchor
>>>> rode. This is a significant reduction in your swing radius. In a
>> crowded
>>>> anchorage, this is a useful trick, with no reduction in safety. Or, you
>>>> can let out the original 91 ft of anchor rode and achieve 91 / 11 = 8.27
>>>> scope ratio. With the same 91 ft swing radius, this larger scope ratio
>>>> makes your anchor less likely to drag.
>>>>>>>> This is SOP anchoring technique aboard S/V Dynamic Equilibrium.
>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>> ________________________________
>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>>> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
>>>> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 10:37 AM
>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>>>>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>>> Name: Anchor.heic
>>>> Type: image/heic
>>>> Size: 22840 bytes
>>>> Desc: not available
>>>> URL: <
>>>>>>http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin>>>> <
>>>>>>http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin>>>>>>>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a single
>>>> cleat centered on the bow and I’m trying to figure out the best way to
>> run
>>>> the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit stanchions?
>> If I
>>>> do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn’t seem
>> good.
>>>> Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That puts
>> the
>>>> pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side. I’ve
>> read
>>>> where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks etc.
>> but
>>>> I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I’ve included an image of the
>>>> bow.
>>>>>>
×
Message to Webmaster:
To use your email application to send a messsage to the webmaster rather than this form,
.
