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2023-10-26; 16:07:36 EDT
Member Since
2008-12-25
Posts: 1035
Roger, The boat hook and carabiner are unnecessary complications. And complications threaten safety. Regards, Rick LangeSee the original archive post
On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 3:14 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote: > Rick, > > Assuming you have a boat hook on board, you only need to thread the anchor > rode thru the carabiner once. After that, you use the boat hook to handle > the anchor rode. It’s no worse than any other time you need to be on the > bow handling the anchor. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Oct 26, 2023, at 2:36 PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> > wrote: > > > > Hi Roger, > > > > The problem with running or tying the anchor rode to the bow eye is that > > you can't safely sit in the bow pulpit and do that during heavy weather. > > The best thing is to first run the rode through a bow chock, tie the rode > > to the bow cleat, then drop the anchor from the bow rail. You can do all > > that sitting securely in the pulpit with your legs hanging over the edge > of > > the deck. > > > > Regards, > > > > Rick Lange > > > > > >> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 12:26 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> > >> wrote: > >> > >> Although I can't open the attachment, my R-22 has the same single bow > >> cleat you describe on your boat. There are many factors that affect > how a > >> boat lies to its anchor. Factors which have a much larger effect on the > >> boat than the slight off-center position of the anchor rode include wind > >> and current direction and strength, distribution and amount of windage ( > >> i.e. Do you have your pop top enclosure &/or boom room up? ), and > >> underwater configuration ( i.e. Do you have the centerboard &/or rudder > up > >> or down? ). There should be a pair of line chocks mounted port and > >> starboard on the toe rails up on the bow. On my boat, these line chocks > >> are mounted on top of the toe rail about halfway in-between the > stanchions > >> on the bow pulpit. You should run the anchor rode from the cleat thru > one > >> or the other of these line chocks. Routing the anchor rode thru these > line > >> chocks will not only bring the effective point of attachment closer to > the > >> boat's centerline on the bow, it will also help to eliminate chafing on > the > >> anchor rode and the boat. If your boat doesn't have these bow line > chocks; > >> then you should add them ASAP. they also help eliminate chafe from dock > >> lines. > >> > >> One thing you should also consider doing is routing the anchor rode > thru a > >> locking rock-climbing carabineer. Then, attach the carabineer to the > >> trailering bow eye and run the anchor rode thru one of the bow line > chocks, > >> and the bow cleat. Now, the effective anchor rode attachment point is > >> about 2 ft closer to the water. This does good things for your anchor > >> scope ratio. An example will serve to illustrate my point: > >> > >> Suppose you want to anchor in 10 ft of water depth. If you route your > >> anchor rode thru the bow chock, which is about 3 ft above the water, you > >> have to add 10 + 3 = 13 ft. To achieve a 7:1 scope ratio you would > have to > >> let out 13 X 7 = 91 ft of anchor rode. If you route your anchor rode > thru > >> the bow eye with a carabineer, you will have reduced the attachment > point's > >> height above the water to about 1 ft and 10 + 1 = 11 ft. Now, to > achieve > >> the same 7:1 scope ratio, you only have to let out 11 X 7 = 77 ft of > anchor > >> rode. This is a significant reduction in your swing radius. In a > crowded > >> anchorage, this is a useful trick, with no reduction in safety. Or, you > >> can let out the original 91 ft of anchor rode and achieve 91 / 11 = 8.27 > >> scope ratio. With the same 91 ft swing radius, this larger scope ratio > >> makes your anchor less likely to drag. > >> > >> This is SOP anchoring technique aboard S/V Dynamic Equilibrium. > >> > >> Roger Pihlaja > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > >> > >> ________________________________ > >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of > >> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> > >> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 10:37 AM > >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> > >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring > >> > >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > >> Name: Anchor.heic > >> Type: image/heic > >> Size: 22840 bytes > >> Desc: not available > >> URL: < > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin > >> < > >> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin > >>>> > >> -------------- next part -------------- > >> Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a single > >> cleat centered on the bow and I’m trying to figure out the best way to > run > >> the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit stanchions? > If I > >> do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn’t seem > good. > >> Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That puts > the > >> pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side. I’ve > read > >> where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks etc. > but > >> I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I’ve included an image of the > >> bow. > >> >
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