I wonder if coating vaseline on the screw set in thickened epoxy would yield strength and allow for removal?

On Fri, Sep 1, 2023 at 11:15 AM DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Peter,
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> The guy from West System said that you could get it out if you heat up the
> screw head with a soldering iron, as Graham Stewart also noted.
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> Graham, I wondered why one wouldn’t use wood screws, but I think I saw a
> rationale in one of the West System guides. I think they tested and machine
> screws were stronger. That doesn’t exactly make sense to me.
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> I did the West Systems method last night with the 1” machine screws and
> put some gaffer tape and weighted screw heads with bricks for the belt and
> suspender approach.
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> Dave
>
> On Aug 31, 2023, at 3:46 PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
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> David,
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> I was halfway through your post when I started thinking that I needed to
> reply recommending _against_ toothpicks and/or wood shavings.  Having
> finished the post, I'll just vote in favor of doing what the West Systems
> guys suggested.  I've never known a project that went far off track by
> following a manufacturer's recommendations.
>
> That said, I'm curious as to what the expectation is about the possibility
> of non-destructively removing the mast step at some point in the future.
>
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
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> I used wood screws rather than machine screws and inserted them when the
> epoxy had set but before it cured.  At this stage the epoxy feels firm but
> you can still mark it with your fingernail. You can also tighten the screw
> down firmly but don't tighten it so much that you tear out the epoxy. If
> the wood core is solid and you have the depth, you can use screws that are
> longer than the hole so that the end grabs into the core material. I would
> be a bit concerned that without being able to fasten the bolt down and
> relying only on tape to hold it in place against the hydraulic pressure,
> the plate might not be held securely.
>
>
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> Depending on how hot it is the epoxy usually reaches the solid stage in a
> few hours. I would not go beyond 24 hours if you can avoid it. If you wait
> until the epoxy is cured it can be difficult to drill the pilot hole
> without the bit wandering into the softer core material. However, If you
> wait too long and need to drill into cured epoxy use a brad point bit to
> keep the bit aligned. There is no hydraulic pressure to contend with using
> this method. I don't think that there is any advantage to using machine
> screws rather than regular screws in this situation.
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> In any event, the worst that can happen is that you just drill it out and
> try again so I wouldn't worry about it.
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> Sometimes it can be very difficult to remove a screw once the epoxy has
> set and it is quite possible to break the screw or strip the head. The
> solution is to heat the screw with a soldering iron before backing it out.
>
>
>
> Graham Stewart
>
> Rhodes 76
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