I would think the topping lift line would work to check the meat. It may be possible that the pop top was broken by someone walking on it. I have a stress fracture in my slider top from that.

Dave B

> On Jun 4, 2021, at 10:41 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> Allyn,
> 
> OK, the best way to check if the mast is bent is to stretch a line taut along the length of the mast.  Any bend will be visible as a gap between the line and the mast.  A conventional mainsail rig can use the main halyard as this line.  On an IMF mainsail rig, you will have to tie a line to the masthead casting somehow.  If you find any bend, you will have to ask Stan how much bend is acceptable and if the bend can be safely removed.  My guess is, if the bend is beyond acceptable limits; then, you probably won’t be able to fix it.  The reason the mast probably won’t be repairable has to do with how the mast is made.  Our masts are made by extrusion from 7071 T6 aluminum alloy.  After extrusion, this alloy has to be heat treated to make it stiff.  But, the heat treatment process also causes the alloy to be susceptible to cold work hardening and embrittlement.  If the final mast extrusion has been bent by an impact loading, the impact site will be cold work hardened.  Bending it back will probably crack it.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 
> Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
> 
> From: Allyn Baskerville<mailto:allynb at adsne.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 3, 2021 11:28 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List<mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Furler Wire Halyard Snapped - What's at the top?
> 
> I just thought of a couple more things. I'm pretty sure the mast was dropped at one point, because the pop top was broken when I bought it. I've fiberglassed that back together. I've noticed a couple times that the mast may not look straight - it's pretty close, and I convince myself it's an optical illusion. It seems to hook back an inch or so part way up the mast. We had a cherry picker at the boat club last weekend, so I went up there to look at the top of the mast where the toggle fork failed. Looking down the mast, I believe I could see it hook backwards slightly, and that may be why my mainsail has never furled well. I have to pull down on the clew pretty hard to get the mail to furl. I do not see any damage, e.g. dents or otherwise, to the mast, and it doesn't appear torqued. I have no idea what the previous owner did as far as changing out any standing rigging, but maybe something broke a while ago and didn’t get the lengths quite right.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Allyn Baskerville
> Sent: Thursday, June 3, 2021 10:02 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: RE: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Furler Wire Halyard Snapped - What's at the top?
> 
> Thanks for the info. I've not been on another Rhodes, but I've spent considerable time on a Capri 22. Based on that, I'd say my boat has excessive weather helm, and I really appreciate the info you provided.
> 
> I've not made any adjustments to the forestay assembly, and the only thing I'm guessing on is adding 3/4" for the piece of the toggle joint that broke off to the point where the pin goes through. I measured this 6 times, and 3 times I came up with about the same measurement: 28' 1-3/4" +/- 1/8" center to center. Just to clarify, the distance from the center of the pin that goes through the chain plate to where the toggle fork broke is 28' 1", then I added 3/4" for where the piece broke off to where I think the pin would be. The forestay wire is 27' 6-1/4" (taken to the outer edge of the swage crimp). I really think I'd run out of adjustment on the backstays if the forestay was about 3.5" shorter. I'll go back out to my boat, but I'd be surprised if there was more than 1.5-2" of adjustment available on the backstays.
> 
> You also mentioned chloride stress cracking fatigue failure. The boat was a one owner and came from Wisconsin and had a Wisconsin title, and I don't know if it was ever sailed in salt water. The hull was coated in mineral deposits, which I continue to work on. But then our lake water isn't much better.
> 
> I worked on this email far to long, but I'm hoping it's relatively clear to understand.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER PIHLAJA
> Sent: Thursday, June 3, 2021 8:46 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Furler Wire Halyard Snapped - What's at the top?
> 
> Hi Allyn,
> 
> The pin-to-pin forestay measurement is 27 ft, 9-5/8 inches.  Again, this is the distance from the center of the pin holding the headstay to the masthead toggle to the center of the pin holding the furler assembly to the bow chainplate.  This measurement sets the overall tilt of the mast and it affects the weather helm/lee helm balance of the boat.  Making the forestay longer tilts the mast aft, moves the center of effort (CE) of the sail plan aft, and increases weather helm.  Conversely, making the forestay shorter tilts the mast forward, moves the CE forward, and increases lee helm.  If you think your R-22 has too much weather or lee helm, now is a good time to fix it.  Realistically, you can only change a few inches +/- from the above measurement without running into other issues with your standing rigging, like running out of adjustment on the backstays and lower sidestays.  But, it will have a noticeable effect on your weather helm/lee helm balance.
> 
> It’s almost impossible to have neutral helm throughout the wind range.  For example, S/V Dynamic Equilibrium is setup to have neutral helm in light air, slight lee helm once the angle of heel gets > 10 deg, transitioning to neutral helm, and then slight weather helm as the angle of heel increases.  Neutral helm in light air is OK because you’re going so slow you don’t have any steering feel anyway.  Going from slight lee helm to neutral helm back to slight weather helm as the wind speed increases means you are having to use much less rudder correction, which adds drag, and the boat has less tendency to round up in a moderate puff of wind.  But, by the time you are putting the leeward rail in the water, you want weather helm and a tendency to round up in a gust because it’s safer than lee helm or neutral helm.  As you might imagine, it took a lot of hours on the water to fine tune this setup.  But, I’ve owned my R-22 since 1987 and I lived on a lake.  This is how you set the mast up for racing.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 
> Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
> 
> From: ROGER PIHLAJA<mailto:roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 2, 2021 5:57 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List<mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Furler Wire Halyard Snapped - What's at the top?
> 
> Allyn,
> 
> The measurement you need is from the center of the pin at the masthead to the center of the pin at the bow chain plate.  I’m due to be released from the hospital tomorrow evening.  I am certain I have that measurement written down in my Harken Roller Furling manual because I had to specify it when I ordered the new forestay from Harken.  I upgraded from the CDI furler to a Harken Unit 0 furler many years ago.  The Harken furler has upper and lower swivels in order to take full advantage of a foam luff pad on the genoa.  When I get home, I’ll look up the measurement and forward it to you.
> 
> Over the years, I’ve replaced nearly all the standing rigging on my boat.  I like the West Marine rigging service.  Look in the back of their catalog.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 2, 2021, at 5:40 PM, Allyn Baskerville <allynb at adsne.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Does anyone have forestay length measurements? I'm going to remeasure tonight, but I've already measured twice. I'm surprised at how much longer my measurements were.
>> 
>> 27' 8-1/4" wire only, 27' 11-1/2 with fittings on the end.
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>> Richard Beytagh
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 2, 2021 10:25 AM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Furler Wire Halyard Snapped - What's at the top?
>> 
>> I've had great service from a company called Dwyer Mast (
>> https://www.dwyermast.com/) and I know they used to do quite a lot of
>> work for Stan at GB. If you give them the right dimensions they'll ake
>> up a new f'stay for you
>> 
>> 
>> ~~~ _/) ~~~
>> 
>> Richard Beytagh
>> Phone: 828 337 0180
>> 
>> 
>>> On Wed, Jun 2, 2021 at 9:28 AM Allyn Baskerville <allynb at adsne.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I should mention that my boat is 2001. I'm not sure what changes were
>>> made over the years.
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>>> Allyn Baskerville
>>> Sent: Wednesday, June 2, 2021 8:25 AM
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Furler Wire Halyard Snapped - What's
>>> at the top?
>>> 
>>> Sorry folks, but I didn't mean halyard - it was the forestay. I just
>>> watched the YouTube video on Silverheels, and the forestay toggle
>>> joint broke at the top fitting exactly like this - the genoa also
>>> dropped in the water exactly as described in the video.
>>> 
>>> I measured the forestay, and the wire only is 27' 8-1/4" and with the
>>> fittings (from the top of where the toggle joint should be to the
>>> bottom of the top threaded part that goes into the turnbuckle) is 27'
>>> 11-1/2". I looked online and found one place that said it was 27' and
>>> another 25'6". I measured both of the dimensions twice. Does anyone
>>> have the dimensions of what this should be?
>>> 
>>> Someone I know recommended sta-lok, but the smallest I can find the
>>> toggle joint is for 5/32" wire and not 1/8". Is there another option,
>>> or should I look at the 5/32" option? I don't have a swaging tool.
>>> 
>>> Thanks, all.
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>>> ROGER PIHLAJA
>>> Sent: Friday, May 28, 2021 3:50 PM
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] CDI Furler Wire Halyard Snapped - What's
>>> at the top?
>>> 
>>> Peter,
>>> 
>>> S/V Silver Heels experienced scenario #1 from my previous post.  If
>>> Allyn’s boat experienced the same issue; then, we may have a problem area.
>>> We might want to warn the whole Rhodes list to inspect the toggle
>>> joints on the top of their forestays.  From your U-Tube video, your
>>> failure looked like a chloride stress cracking fatigue failure.  Such
>>> failures are common with 300 series stainless steel alloys in a salt
>>> water environment.  They can be early detected by dye penetrant, magnaflux, or ultrasonic testing.
>>> Dye penetrant would be the easiest for the average boat owner.  All
>>> boats that sail on salt water would be subject to this issue.
>>> 
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On May 28, 2021, at 4:10 PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> ?Allyn,
>>>> 
>>>> I had a similar adventure, and made a video about the problem and
>>>> the
>>> fix.  There's a pretty good shot of the top of the mast in there too.
>>>> 
>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbKIYYFU73s&t=5s
>>>> 
>>>> Best of luck,
>>>> 
>>>> Peter
>>> 
>