One thing about Stan's trailer is that it doesn't have a simple bow
stopper, but a deep V-shaped bow crutch.  The crutch keeps the bow in place
when you hit a deep pothole or have a fender bender.

Regards,

Rick Lange

On Tue, May 18, 2021 at 3:00 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:

> Thanks Roger. That is very helpful.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile, Rodes 22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf
> Of ROGER PIHLAJA
> Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2021 8:31 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer
>
> Graham,
>
> The position of the boat on the bunks isn’t going to change.  The second
> axle, wheels, tires, and leaf springs only add a few hundred lbs and it’s
> mostly unsprung weight down low.  Let’s define the trailer coupling ball as
> the center of rotation.  Now, think about the radius of pitching (i.e. up &
> down) of the trailer wheels relative to the trailer coupling.  In order to
> have the tongue weight like it is now, but with tandem wheels, that pitch
> radius needs to be the same.  You also want the tandem wheels to share the
> load equally.  Therefore, you want the centers of the tandem wheels to be
> equidistant ahead of and behind the location of the present single wheels
> with a few inches of tire separation clearance.  Trailer brakes should go
> on the front wheels because the front wheels will tend to get more heavily
> loaded during a panic stop.  If your present single axle trailer is not
> stable at highway speeds; then, now would be good time to add more tongue
> weight by shifting the axles aft slightly.  Don’t go overboard here, a
> couple of inches would add a lot of tongue weight and make a huge
> difference.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
> Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
> From: Graham Stewart<mailto:gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2021 1:05 AM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'<mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer
>
> I am wondering what all is involved in adding another axel. Is it just a
> matter of placing a secod axel behind the current one or do both axels need
> to be moved to achieve a proper balance?
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile, Rodes 22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf
> Of Steven Alm
> Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 8:15 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer
>
> Thomas, when I first bought my boat a quarter century ago and towed it for
> the first time, as soon as I hit 45mph the boat started fishtailing wildly
> and jerking the vehicle like crazy. Scary as h*ll! I took the motor off and
> lashed it to the trailer tongue and also loaded other gear as far forward
> as possible. That helped. But also, when the boat was in the yard (not
> connected to the vehicle) if I climbed the boarding ladder the tongue would
> lift up. I’m only 165 lbs! After a couple years of this and many attempts
> to load the boat farther up on the trailer I finally popped for a second
> axle to be added to the trailer. I added electric breaks too.  Best
> thousand bucks I ever spent! It now tracks like a dream without removing
> the motor, shifting gear or anything else. It also gives me peace of mind
> knowing that if I blow a tire or burn a bearing I can safely pull over.  I
> know some R22s tow just fine on single axle rigs but mine did not and
> others, like you have had the same problem. Not all trailers are created
> equal. If you plan to do much trailering I highly recommend this fix.
>
> Steve “Slim” Alm
> S/V Fandango
> On Sat, May 1, 2021 at 12:17 AM <cjlowe at sssnet.com> wrote:
>
> > Yes, I can see how I could have worded it better. You want the stopper "
> > arm" pushed all the way toward the tow vehicle .
> >
> >
> >   Jerry Lowe
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >  Just to clarify, when you say the bow stopper has to be all the way back
> > > you mean it should be retracted towards the front of the trailer—is
> that
> > > correct?
> > >
> > > Michael McKay
> > >
> > > Sent from my iPhone
> > >
> > >> On Apr 30, 2021, at 6:41 AM, Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >>
> > >> ?Makes sense. Thanks!
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 2:16 AM <cjlowe at sssnet.com> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> Mitch,
> > >>>  The bow stopper has to be all the way back so the bow eye doesn't
> hit
> > >>> the stopper when pulling out of the water. As you start to  pull the
> > >>> trailer out of water, the boat is resting on the tip of forward end
> of
> > >>> the bunks and the aft end of the boat floats a foot or more above the
> > >>> back end of bunks. As the boat comes out, it rocks back and the bow
> of
> > >>> the boat raises about a foot, if you don't have the stop all the way
> > >>> back, you will rip off the bow eye pad, or worse.
> > >>> I like to have the bow eye pad about two inches forward of the bow
> for
> > >>> travel. The boat will rock almost that much in transit and there is
> no
> > >>> sense in beating up the bow by putting them tight together.
> > >>>
> > >>> Jerry Lowe
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> If that’s the case what would be the purpose of an adjustable bow
> > >>>> stopper?
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>>>
> > >>>>> On Apr 28, 2021, at 10:50 PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com
> >
> > >>>>> wrote:
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> ?I’ll disagree a bit here.  I never move my ‘bow bumper’.
> > >>>>> I’ll put my bow as close to it as I can manage while the boat is
> > >>>>> still
> > >>>>> in the water.  As Charles said, when the boat and trailer are
> pulled
> > >>>>> out
> > >>>>> of the water, the space between the ‘bow bumper’ and the boat
> > >>>>> will
> > >>>>> increase.  This is inevitable, and not necessarily a problem.
> Moving
> > >>>>> the ‘bow bumper’ closer to the boat at this point just increases
> > >>>>> the
> > >>>>> likelihood of damage to the boat in transit.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Peter Nyberg
> > >>>>> Coventry, CT
> > >>>>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>> On Apr 28, 2021, at 10:29 PM, Charles Nieman
> > >>>>>> <blue66corvette at hotmail.com> wrote:
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Thomas
> > >>>>>> You float the boat, slide the bow bumper as far forward as
> possible,
> > >>>>>> tighten the boat as far to the front as possible. When you drive
> out
> > >>>>>> of
> > >>>>>> the water, the boat will shift to the stern, so the key is to keep
> > >>>>>> it
> > >>>>>> as close to the front as possible. After you get it out of the
> > >>>>>> water,
> > >>>>>> then you slide the bow bumper back to the boat to reduce bounce.
> > >>>>>> It’s
> > >>>>>> tricky, and I’ve had to retry a few times but it can be done.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Charles
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>