R22 Discussion Group

I like to tape paper towels around the suspected areas and see which ones

 Great job Reuben!  I agree with Graham and others concerning the use of butyl tape.  It's easy to work with and remains flexible.  Among other uses, I used it successfully around the chainplates.
Don Simons,Ithaca, NY
    On Tuesday, March 9, 2021, 11:25:22 AM EST, Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com> wrote:  

 After receiving the many excellent suggestions on where to look for leaks I
started what ended being a 1 week process to find and ultimately repair the
leak.

I first removed the cosmetic wood trim inside the forward cabin at the bow
to expose the attachments of the Jib chainplate and the Bow eye. I sprayed
water at the bow  and determined these were not the source of the leaks. I
then sprayed water on the foredeck and initially saw no water leaking into
the boat but when I came back to the boat the next morning found that some
water (about 1 - 2 cups) had collected at the bow (By now I had removed the
cushions and so could see the water in a puddle on the floor of the forward
bunk at the bow). I had some sort of a slow leak.

I then had my wife spray water on the foredeck while I was on my back in
the forecabin and was able to see that there were leaks at each of the four
legs of the pulpit. The leaks would drip onto the carpeted shelf that is at
each side of the forecabin (behind a white fiberglass trim piece) and then
the water would slowly make its way forward to trickle down at the bow end
of the forecabin.

The pulpit is attached by 3/8" bolts that are welded to each of the legs
and which extend down through holes in the deck and fastened with a flat
washer, lock washer and 9/16" nut. After unfastening the nuts the pulpit
lifted up easily. One complication is that the electrical wires that feed
the navigation lights at the bow extend through a seperate hole just
forward of the hole for the aft-starboard bolt. That wire seems to run back
to the distribution panel and has very little slack and so I had to cut
it.  When I did remove the pulpit I found there was some white sealant that
adhered to the deck but not the pulpit leg (which ends in an oval flange at
the bottom) as well as an O-ring around the base of the bolt.

After consulting with Stan, who told me that his preferred method for
keeping water out is to just use an O-ring around the nut (and not to apply
sealant), I cleaned off the old sealant (a product called ReMov which was
recommended in a Practical Sailor review, worked great for this) I put new
O-rings on. Rather than putting an O-ring around the electric wire near the
aft-starboard leg I put some wraps of butyl rubber tape abound it.
I reattached the pulpit, tightened the nuts and had my wife spray the
foredeck again and sadly found that there was again a leak (perhaps even
worse than before) at each leg - but not where the electric wire entered
the cabin.

I removed the pulpit again, removed the o_rings and this time used Butyl
tape to form the seal at each leg. Using a technique I found on You Tube I
cut a 3 - 4 inch length of the tape, rolled the tape along its length into
a tube (or rope) and then wrapped it several times about the base of the
bolt. The thickness can be adjusted by adding more or less wraps and I was
generous, using the entire 3 - 4 inch tape at each leg. I added more Butyl
to the electric wire.

After putting the pulpit back in place and only moderately tightening the
nuts, my wife sprayed the foredeck again and this time - success - no
leaks!!

I have become a big fan of Butyl rubber tape, which to be honest I hadn't
even heard about till last week!

Of course now I have to splice back the electric wire for the navigation
light and replace the cosmetic wood trim I removed, but I am much relieved
that this problem is solved

Thanks for your advice and support

--Reuben
Reuben Mezrich
Pelican Cove in Sarasota
Cell: 410-499-8922

The Rhodes 22 Discussion Group

Donald Simons

Leak at the bow....where to look first