Peter, thanks for your quick and detailed response.

I would rather err on the side of caution and add the tubular covering to
avoid scratches on the deck so I think I'll try the tubular webbing as well.  

On your anchoring system video, I saw that you added a cleat to the jib
track that runs on deck next to the cabin.  My R22 only has the outside of
genoa tracks, so I run my jib sheets outside the upper shrouds.  I'm
curious, do you find yourself running the jib sheets inside the upper
shrouds and using the block on the inside track?  I know there is also a
bulls eye and cam cleat for the jib sheets on top of the cabin on the
outside edge.  I suppose that setup or the inside jib sheet track could be
used when using the partially furled jib and trying to point up.  The club
Santana 20 that we use for match racing has two sets of jib sheet tracks and
we select which one to use based on whether we have a 90% jib or a genoa. 
However, for my R22, I've simply left the jib sheets running on the outside
track.  Perhaps others could share their experience on this too.   From a
brief search of R22 photos on the internet, it appears that the presence of
a set of inside jib sheet tracks is the exception rather than the norm.

I can see where it would be helpful to have a cleat accessible from the
cabin to tie off the anchor rode.  Did you find that the aft cleats (also
used for stern lines) were insufficient?  I wonder if you just wanted to
leave stern lines tied to those.  Perhaps using the aft cleat would be
inconvenient since it is behind the deck pipe that opens to the front to
feed the rode into the lazarette.  One possibility for my boat would be to
add a 6" folding cleat in front of the deck pipe so it would be out of the
way when not in use.  I tend to sit on the coaming towards the front of the
stern rail to hike out when heeling so I want to make sure that space is
usable.  That's the reason I decided not to pursue the rear mounting of the
bimini since I thought it could get in the way of sitting in that position. 
Some other possibilities would be to add a folding cleat where you mounted
your cleat on the inside jib sheet track, or I could add a jib sheet track
along with a mounted cleat, block, and slider but that gets quite expensive.

Regarding the quick connect/disconnect, I've found that there are locking
climbing caribiners rated to over 5600 lbs of load.  In your case, I wonder
if you could use a more traditional solution (which takes some more time to
connect/disconnect) on one side, and use the carabiner connection on the
other so it wouldn't seem like a hassle to setup.  I'm planning to have my
Mantus M2 anchor on a roller on the bow with rode stored in the laz like
your setup, though I may use a locking carbiner and just connect that when
getting ready to anchor.   For my Fortress FX7 anchor, I plan to store that
in the laz.  I plan to make some chocks to mount it sideways inside against
the forward wall of the lazerette.  The rode for that (100' of 3/8" line
attached to 10' of 5/16" chain) will remain in it's current place, which is
a 3 gallon bucket under the starboard settee.  I cut the bucket down so it
can slide in under the aft section of the bench and then locks in place
under the shorter section up front so it doesn't come out while heeling.

For the deck pipe to access the rode in the laz, I might get a slightly
larger size than what you used.  The rode that I plan to store there is 180'
of 1/2" line connected to 5/16" chain which came with the boat.  Currently
there is 20' of chain but I will shorten that so it transitions to line
ahead of wherever I plan to cleat it.  

When you're anchored for the night, do you also tie off the anchor rode
somewhere on the foredeck?  Based on my current setup on the foredeck, which
includes a Marinco solar vent, and chocks to either side, there's not an
easy way to direct the line to the cleat in the center of the bow. 

I may try your solution for the use of the bow eye using a "painter."  For
the wood block that you made for this purpose, did you find it easier to
make out out of several pieces rather than one solid piece?

For storing the rode in the lazarette, I had considered making a sort of
connector tube that leads to the West Marine rode storage bag that the rode
is currently stored in.  I think it's the same one you showed in one of your
early videos.  I suppose I would need to find a good way to attach the
connector tube to the West Marine bag.  Or I could just make a bag like you
did. 

Those are some of my ideas for now, but the plans will probably continue to
evolve before I get started on the project in the fall.  Thanks in advance
for any advice.

Jesse Shumaker
S/V Zephyr






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