Graham, I keep coming back to a corroded connection as the most likely
culprit. It's entirely possible to have the correct voltage going to
everything but not the right amperage. Sensors like this run on milliamps
are very sensitive to fluctuations. A corroded connection will still let
the proper voltage through, but not necessarily the correct amperage. Any
chance you've tried running a jumper wire from the sensor to the instrument
panel? Doing this would help with the process of elimination and maybe let
you figure out whether the problem is voltage, amperage, a bad connection
or a bad sensor.
Michael Riter
SV Emma B
On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 9:12 AM Lowe, Rob <rlowe at vt.edu> wrote:
> Graham,
> I'm running out of suggestions. I'd visibly check all the wiring between
> the display and the sending unit but after that, perhaps the unit is
> faulty. Good thing is you don't need it to sail! - rob
>> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2020 11:19 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Network Quad problems
>> I haven't read all the posts. I assume you are doing all of your power
> checks with the negative lead of your meter on the battery ground? If you
> have battery voltage going into the instrument, and the same voltage coming
> out on the ground (with the neg meter still on the (-) battery terminal,
> the open is on the ground, return side. The meter reads battery voltage
> when bridging the open section of the circuit. This is why I like to
> troubleshoot DC with a test light.
> But let me read the rest of the posts. I'l still make a dumb comment
> then...
>>tavares0947 at gmail.com>> On Wed, Jul 15, 2020, 10:12 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
>> > Well I finally got a chance to do some electrical investigating using
> > Roger's much appreciated strategy but have come up short. The battery,
> > which is new and fully charged reads 12.63 volts on its own without the
> > main
> > switch engaged. I get virtually the same reading with the system switched
> > on
> > and the same again for the leads where they enter the display unit. I
> > checked the line out from the display and it is the same. So I seem to
> have
> > full power going to the display.
> >
> > The fact that all of the readings are either missing entirely or steadily
> > rising makes me think it might be a faulty unit. If anyone can think of
> > anything else I might check I would appreciate the suggestion. I really
> > don't want to have to buy or install a new unit.
> >
> > Thanks to all for their suggestions.
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976
> > Kingston Ontario
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On
> Behalf
> > Of
> > ROGER PIHLAJA
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2020 9:15 AM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Network Quad problems
> >
> > Hi Graham,
> >
> > Just because the display comes on does not necessarily mean you have no
> > power issues. The LCD display will operate on low voltage and requires
> > very
> > little current. The fact that your unit operated for 20+ years without a
> > "sea ground" means it was operating with ground defined as the battery's
> > (-)
> > terminal. So, here are some things to check:
> >
> >
> > 1. Check the voltage at the battery terminals. If the battery is 100%
> > charged and all circuits are turned off, the voltage should be ~13 VDC.
> If
> > the voltage is <=12.5 VDC; then disconnect the (+) & (-) terminals and
> > measure again. If the voltage is still low, try charging the battery.
> If
> > the battery won't accept a charge; then, it needs to be replaced.
> > 2. If the battery voltage is ~13 VDC, turn on the instrument circuit.
> > Again, check the voltage at the battery. If the voltage drops; then you
> > have a short circuit in the instrument wiring, the instrument itself, or
> a
> > bad battery.
> > 3. Now, check the voltage at the instrument. It should be nearly the
> > same as at the battery. You can check your B&G Owner's manual for the
> > minimum power supply voltage. On my Raymarine Autohelm ST50 instruments,
> > the specified voltage range is 11.0 VDC <= [Supply Voltage] < 16.0 VDC.
> I
> > have found the ST50 instruments will keep operating long after all the
> > other
> > electronics have shut down due to low battery voltage. But, your B&G
> > system
> > might be more finicky about proper power.
> > 4. If the voltage at the instrument is too low; then, try
> disconnecting
> > the power from the instrument and then measure the voltage on the wires.
> > It
> > should be the same as at the battery. If you have proper voltage in the
> > disconnected wires and low voltage when you connect them; then, you have
> > isolated the problem to the B&G instrument itself. Good luck getting
> > service on a 20+ year old instrument!
> >
> > If I were a gambling man, I would place my bet on a bad battery.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >
> > Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows
> > 10
> >
> > From: Graham Stewart<mailto:gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>
> > Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 8:49 PM
> > To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'<mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Network Quad problems
> >
> > I have always been surprised at the answers that are posted here to some
> of
> > the most difficult questions so I am posting this question as a last
> > desperate attempt to get help.
> > I have been using my B&G Network Quad (speed knots, depth and water temp)
> > instrument for probably more than 20 years and it has worked without
> fail.
> > This year when I launched the boat it worked perfectly for the first day
> > but
> > thereafter the speed reads 0.00 continuously and the depth and
> temperature
> > show erratic numbers.
> > I checked the paddlewheel for obstructions and it was fine. Spinning the
> > wheel manually makes no difference to the display. The fact that the
> > display
> > comes on tells me that power is not a problem. It seems unlikely that
> both
> > the speed and the depth transducers would fail at the same time. The
> wiring
> > hasn't changed. The common element in the wiring is the connection to the
> > "sea ground" which I don't have but has never been a problem.
> Nevertheless
> > I connected the ground to a brass thru hull and that made no difference.
> > I can't help feel that some tweak would fix the unit but I am now at the
> > point where I am completely stuck with no idea what to try. So, if anyone
> > on
> > da list has a clue what I might do to diagnose the problem I would be
> most
> > grateful.
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Agile, Rodes 22, 1976
> > Kingston Ontario
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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