Hi Jim

We are also on the Magothy River and keep our boat on a boat lift at our house, on the South shore near Dobbin Island. You are very welcome to come over and take a look. One very important lesson that I learned the hard way is that it is critical to tie a line around the boat and tie so that the boat cannot twist under to line and blow onto its side during strong winds. If the boat topside blows onto the steel supports at the base of the guide posts, there will be expensive damage to the topside. Another lesson is that you need to orient the boat so that the mast slot for the IMF is not facing prevailing winds from north or west, or there will be frequent wind noise that is annoying to you and your neighbors. I need to back in the boat so that the slot is facing south, which is cumbersome but possible. Despite these issues, the boatlift makes it very easy to leave from the boat lift in just a few minutes and enjoy a sail. Good luck with your boat. If you like, you can post your contact info and I will give you a call or email. 

Mark Wynn 
Windchimes

> On Jun 30, 2020, at 9:16 AM, Lowe, Rob <rlowe at vt.edu> wrote:
> 
> Jim,
> Seems like wiring on the Rhodes is a challenge.  On my boat, none of the wiring is consistent or up to any standards.  I don't know if my wiring is factory or PO done.  Since my interior was redone, I expect a bit of both. The only wiring diagram I've ever seen is the one Chris Cowie did in his sketchbook, which was recently posted.  Since every boat is a bit different than the rest, I would not expect to find a standard wiring diagram.  You best bet is to tackle each circuit at a time.  In my experience, it seems the ground wire for a particular circuit gets corroded and won't make contact.  Do you have a volt meter?  It's really hard to work without one.  I've had success taking the switches and fuse holders apart and cleaning them.  I pull wires off the connectors, clean them, and reconnect them.  None of my connectors are covered with heat shrink tubing and are very susceptible to corrosion.  On my circuit breaker panel, the negative wire was so corroded the whole panel would not work until I cleaned it.  Good luck!  - rob
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of James Schroll <jschroll at msn.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 29, 2020 7:21 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Two unrelated questions
> 
> We keep our 1990 Rhodes 22 (refurbished by Stan in 2016) at a neighbors house on the Magothy River (5 miles or so north of Annapolis).  She has a boat lift which has become available, but I will clearly need to build some bunks in order to use it.  Right now, there are two 3”w x 12”h beams running (parallel to the centerline of the boat) attached to the tow steel I beams of the lift.  Does anyone have any experience, plans, dimensions, pictures, or anything else which might guide my creation of a set of bunks?  If nothing else, I can try to reproduce the layout of the bunks on our trailer, but actual dimensions/angles would certainly help.
> 
> Secondly, most fo the electrical circuits seem to not be functioning.  The batteries are fine and the engine starts immediately, the cabin lights work, and the radio (which does not appear to be wired into the breaker panel works, but the running lights, 12 v outlets, anchoring light, and masthead light are not functioning.  Does anyone have wiring diagrams which might be of help?  I’m pretty sure that the wiring is not all original (some of the wires leaving the breaker panel are different than those arriving at the lights, suggesting splices and homemade repairs).  Any suggestions on how to attack this?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jim Schroll
> Pinafore