Well, this is a timely question — I just tightened that last of the 54 bolts holding the centerboard cap in place last night (my boat isn’t in the water). For the second time. I do have some pics. My diamond board was in rough shape. I don’t think it liked Lake Waco.

I am not sure what the best way to attach images is. I am going to try attaching them to this message, but I’ve also shared them on Dropbox here (zipped together):

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7tum1gvszoc8eom/rhodes-centerboard.zip?dl=0 <https://www.dropbox.com/s/7tum1gvszoc8eom/rhodes-centerboard.zip?dl=0>

While I am sure this can be done underwater, I am not sure I would be brave enough to try it with zero visibility. Taking the centerboard cap off and lifting the diamond board out should be done out of the water. It isn’t easy either, but you can see what you are doing.


John Carlson
Lillipelli 2004 (recycled 2012)

> On Jun 13, 2020, at 9:25 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca <mailto:gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>> wrote:
> 
> Jesse:
> I have the older centerboard so others might well have better advice.
> 
> What you suggest should work. I have never tried to do this type of work while the boat was in the water. I have always had the boat on the trailer and removed the centerboard cap - which is, admittedly, a pita. The advantage of doing it with the cap removed is that you get to inspect the centerboard for damage and check all of the blocks to make sure they are still working properly. Mine were not.
> 
> My line is 12' long. It passes through a series of blocks so that when the board is down it uses quite a bit more line than you might think. In your circumstance I would not use less than 12'. Don't overlook tying the bitter end of the new line inside the boat so that you don't pull the whole line through.
> 
> Use the same thickness of line as is currently installed.
> 
> Given that you must pass through a series of blocks the join between the lines should be strong and flexible.
> 
> 
> If anything goes wrong - such as the line separating, you will want to have a backup plan to get the boat on its trailer while the board is down. Driving the boat onto the trailer should result in the board being lifted automatically by the keel roller but I would want to test this on your rig before committing to removing the line.
> 
> Graham Stewart
> gstewart8 at cogeco.ca <mailto:gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org <mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org>] On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker
> Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 9:21 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it.  It
> appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with
> the direct pull line.  As you can see from the attached photos, the pendant
> is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the way
> through so I want to replace the line before that happens.  In the photos,
> I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1"
> from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it goes
> in the hole.
> 
> Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat a
> few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard.
> Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any
> detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the keel.  I
> can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on.
> 
> From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 - 8'
> line should be sufficient.  Does anyone recommend a specific type of line?
> 
> Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant:
> 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant
> 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant
> 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant
> 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I get
> to where the old and new pendant are attached
> 5) Separate the new and old pendant
> 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off
> 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot
> 
> Some additional thoughts:
> 
> There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new
> pendant will be an underwater adventure.  Considering the visibility level
> in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel which
> means it will take longer than I can hold my breath.  I'm going to see if I
> can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club.
> 
> To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small line
> to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape.  It doesn't look
> like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a
> knot and still have it fit through the hole.
> 
> I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line and
> then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below.
> 
> Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the
> diamondboard?
> 
> Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed?
> 
> Thanks,
> Jesse Shumaker
> S/V Zephyr
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> 


> On Jun 14, 2020, at 12:01 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> FYI, the use of a smaller line to establish a path for a larger line is called “sending a messenger line”.  The term comes from the old days of sailing when a small cannon was used to fire the messenger line from one ship to another or from the beach to a foundering ship, to be followed up with the larger line.  The technique is still used right up to this day to rig up hose from a tanker to another ship for refueling at sea.  Even nuclear powered aircraft carriers need regular deliveries of jet fuel for their aircraft.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 
> Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>> for Windows 10
> 
> From: Jesse Shumaker<mailto:jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 10:23 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List<mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant
> 
> Ric, thanks for the note regarding the flange.  I will address that as
> well.  It is good to know that it looks like I have some time before the
> pendant parts in two.  The guy at our sailing club with the SCUBA gear is
> out of town until late August or early September so this will be a project
> for late in the season.  Until then, I'll avoid cleating where it is
> wearing through.
> 
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 6:58 AM Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:
> 
>> If you carefully tape the new line to old with electrical tape, but end to
>> but end you should be able to pull a new line through, even if yo have the
>> old style CB with blocks. Be sure to use flexible line of the same
>> diameter.
>> One observation of you photo at the frayed line. You are missing a plastic
>> flange to the top of the pendant hole in the fiberglass. The flange is
>> rounded and helps prevent the wear you are observing.  Lastly. You have
>> some time before the pendant wears thru.
>> Ric
>> Dadventure
>> HBNY
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jun 14, 2020, at 7:32 AM, Jesse Shumaker <
>> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Hi Rick, thanks for your input.  I like your idea to use the fishing as
>> a
>>> threader and I plan to do that.
>>> 
>>> I have been pulling up the board when in my slip because the boat gets
>> some
>>> side to side roll and the board can knock around a bit.  Also, I pull up
>>> the board at least part way when I am pulling in my slip when wind is
>>> coming off the lake at my stern.  I go past my slip just a bit and then
>>> quickly turn to head up into the wind slightly before turning into my
>>> slip.  It gets pretty shallow past my slip (there's only one more boat
>>> towards the beach after mine)  so pulling up the board lessens the draft
>> to
>>> give some room when executing that maneuver.
>>> 
>>> I might hold off on replacing the pennant until it is hauled out as
>>> suggested.  Until then, when I need to pull up the board, I suppose that
>> I
>>> could just pull it up part of the way so the frayed portion of the line
>> is
>>> not resting in the cleat.
>>> 
>>>> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:56 PM Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Jesse,
>>>> 
>>>> If your boat stays wet all season, why do you have to pull the board up?
>>>> If you need to knock off mussels, just pull it up and down a couple
>> inches
>>>> each week.  Replace the pennant more easily when the boat is hauled out.
>>>> 
>>>> There isn't enough room to pull through the knot tying together the old
>> and
>>>> new pennants.  Use fishing line as a threader.
>>>> 
>>>> Regards,
>>>> 
>>>> Rick Lange
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:20 PM Jesse Shumaker <
>>>> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>> 
>>>>> My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it.
>> It
>>>>> appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard)
>> with
>>>>> the direct pull line.  As you can see from the attached photos, the
>>>> pendant
>>>>> is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the
>>>> way
>>>>> through so I want to replace the line before that happens.  In the
>>>> photos,
>>>>> I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1"
>>>>> from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it
>>>> goes
>>>>> in the hole.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the
>> boat a
>>>>> few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard.
>>>>> Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any
>>>>> detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the
>>>> keel.  I
>>>>> can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on.
>>>>> 
>>>>> From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 -
>>>> 8'
>>>>> line should be sufficient.  Does anyone recommend a specific type of
>>>> line?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant:
>>>>> 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant
>>>>> 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant
>>>>> 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant
>>>>> 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I
>> get
>>>>> to where the old and new pendant are attached
>>>>> 5) Separate the new and old pendant
>>>>> 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off
>>>>> 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot
>>>>> 
>>>>> Some additional thoughts:
>>>>> 
>>>>> There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new
>>>>> pendant will be an underwater adventure.  Considering the visibility
>>>> level
>>>>> in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel
>> which
>>>>> means it will take longer than I can hold my breath.  I'm going to see
>>>> if I
>>>>> can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club.
>>>>> 
>>>>> To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small
>>>> line
>>>>> to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape.  It doesn't
>> look
>>>>> like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with
>> a
>>>>> knot and still have it fit through the hole.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line
>>>> and
>>>>> then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the
>>>>> diamondboard?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Jesse Shumaker
>>>>> S/V Zephyr
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>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>> 
> 
>