Thanks for the info Charles and Graham.

I hope to avoid removing the centerboard cap and if it came to that then I
definitely would do it off the water based on Charles' advice.

To Graham's point, I've got a Triad trailer and have tried pulling the boat
onto the trailer successfully with the diamondboard extended so I should be
able to get the boat on the trailer if this goes poorly.

It was my understanding that the diamondboard design uses a straight
through pull that avoids going through any blocks.  Is that correct?

I suppose another option would be to wrap the line with some tape to avoid
additional fraying this season and then take it to the local sailboat shop
(which has a lift) at the end of the season to do the repair while the boat
is on the lift and the diamondboard can be extended.

Has anyone with a diamondboard (as opposed to the old centerboard design)
replaced their pendant?  I assume I'm not the only person whose pendant has
had significant wear.

On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 9:34 PM Charles Nieman <blue66corvette at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> I’m not certain if this is a good idea or not. But a word of safety, the
> center board cap is lower than the waterline. If you remove the cap while
> the boat is in the water you will test the total floatation system.
>
> Don’t ask me how I know.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Charles Nieman
>
>
> > On Jun 13, 2020, at 9:25 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> >
> > ?Jesse:
> > I have the older centerboard so others might well have better advice.
> >
> > What you suggest should work. I have never tried to do this type of work
> while the boat was in the water. I have always had the boat on the trailer
> and removed the centerboard cap - which is, admittedly, a pita. The
> advantage of doing it with the cap removed is that you get to inspect the
> centerboard for damage and check all of the blocks to make sure they are
> still working properly. Mine were not.
> >
> > My line is 12' long. It passes through a series of blocks so that when
> the board is down it uses quite a bit more line than you might think. In
> your circumstance I would not use less than 12'. Don't overlook tying the
> bitter end of the new line inside the boat so that you don't pull the whole
> line through.
> >
> > Use the same thickness of line as is currently installed.
> >
> > Given that you must pass through a series of blocks the join between the
> lines should be strong and flexible.
> >
> >
> > If anything goes wrong - such as the line separating, you will want to
> have a backup plan to get the boat on its trailer while the board is down.
> Driving the boat onto the trailer should result in the board being lifted
> automatically by the keel roller but I would want to test this on your rig
> before committing to removing the line.
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > gstewart8 at cogeco.ca
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On
> Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker
> > Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 9:21 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing diamondboard pendant
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > My R22 was built in 1991 and refurbished in 2013 before I bought it.  It
> > appears that my boat has the diamondboard (rather than centerboard) with
> > the direct pull line.  As you can see from the attached photos, the
> pendant
> > is wearing through to the point that I'm worried about it going all the
> way
> > through so I want to replace the line before that happens.  In the
> photos,
> > I didn't quite pull the diamondboard all the way back (a little over 1"
> > from being fully pulled up) so you can see the fraying just before it
> goes
> > in the hole.
> >
> > Today I put some goggles on, took a deep breath and dove under the boat a
> > few times to locate where the pendant ties on to the daggerboard.
> > Unfortunately, our lake water is so murky that I can't really see any
> > detail beyond that there is a diamondboard extending down from the
> keel.  I
> > can't even see the line, but I can feel where it ties on.
> >
> > From reading past posts regarding the diamondboard, it appears like 6 -
> 8'
> > line should be sufficient.  Does anyone recommend a specific type of
> line?
> >
> > Here's my initial thoughts on steps to replace the pendant:
> > 1) Remove the handle from the old pendant
> > 2) Attach the handle to the new pendant
> > 3) Attach the new pendant to the old pendant
> > 4) Go below and pull the old pendant and keep pulling through until I get
> > to where the old and new pendant are attached
> > 5) Separate the new and old pendant
> > 6) Untie the old pendant from the diamondboard or cut it off
> > 7) Tie the new pendant to the diamondboard using a bowline knot
> >
> > Some additional thoughts:
> >
> > There's not a lift available at our sailing club so attaching the new
> > pendant will be an underwater adventure.  Considering the visibility
> level
> > in the water is so low, I'll have to be doing a lot of this by feel which
> > means it will take longer than I can hold my breath.  I'm going to see
> if I
> > can borrow some scuba gear from another sailor at the club.
> >
> > To attach the old and new pendants together, I'll use some very small
> line
> > to tie them together, or perhaps some glue and/or tape.  It doesn't look
> > like there is enough room to tie the old and new pendant together with a
> > knot and still have it fit through the hole.
> >
> > I'm going to err on the side of using a longer than needed pendant line
> and
> > then cut it to length up top after it has been tied in from below.
> >
> > Does anyone have any pictures of where the pendant connects to the
> > diamondboard?
> >
> > Are there any suggestions from the group before I proceed?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jesse Shumaker
> > S/V Zephyr
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