Thomas:

The chainplates on my 76 were simply stainless tangs that were bent into an "L" shape with the horizontal piece inserted between the cabin liner and the core and held in place with a single short screw. Of course the screws loosened over time and the tang in turn rattled about loosely. While it seemed to be strong enough I didn't like it moving about so I removed them all and replaced them with special stainless eyebolts as shown in the attached photos. 

I used a grinder to remove the old chain plates. As it turned out I could have removed them more easily by removing some of the liner but at the time I didn't realize that the hardware was under the core rather than embedded into it.

Note that I hollowed out the area around the hole where the eyebolt went through the cabin top and filled the hollow including any void between the liner and the core with thickened epoxy. One the epoxy had set, but BEFORE it cured, I re-drilled the hole. I used butyl tape as the sealant and added large washers on the inside to widen the load. This strengthened the deck in the area and sealed the core from any water penetration. It all seems very solid now.

Graham


Graham Stewart
Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
Kingston Ontario






Blue wave forged eye bolts for lower chainplates.jpg

Forged eyebolts installed for lower chainplates.jpg

Chainplates removed 2012.jpg

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2020 1:31 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Chainplate failure

Just curious if anyone has dealt with this before.  My port chainplate upper portion loosened and cracked top deck.  The chainplate is secure but I was surprised that it was 2 pieces which allowed it to move forward and back and not bolted in 4 places.  My thoughts are to replace with a solid “T” chainplate and then repair deck.