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Stephen CongdonCLU
Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4159, Issue 1
2019-12-04; 21:16:25 EST
Member Since
2012-11-17
Posts: 12
I Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/ghei36>See the original archive post
________________________________ From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org> Sent: Wednesday, December 4, 2019 11:40:21 AM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4159, Issue 1 Send Rhodes22-list mailing list submissions to rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org You can reach the person managing the list at rhodes22-list-owner at rhodes22.org When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Rhodes22-list digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Long term cruising stowage (S/V Lark) 2. Re: hatch on foredeck (Graham Stewart) 3. Re: hatch on foredeck (Peter Nyberg) 4. Re: Long term cruising stowage (Chris Geankoplis) 5. Re: hatch on foredeck (Graham Stewart) 6. Re: hatch on foredeck (James Nichols) 7. Re: Long term cruising stowage (James Nichols) 8. Re: hatch on foredeck (ROGER PIHLAJA) 9. Re: hatch on foredeck (Jesse Shumaker) 10. Re: Long term cruising stowage (Jesse Shumaker) 11. Re: hatch on foredeck (Todd Tavares) 12. Re: hatch on foredeck (Peter Nyberg) 13. Re: Long term cruising stowage (Chris Geankoplis) 14. Re: hatch on foredeck (Graham Stewart) 15. Re: hatch on foredeck (James Nichols) 16. Re: hatch on foredeck (Graham Stewart) 17. Re: hatch on foredeck (mweisner at ebsmed.com) 18. Re: hatch on foredeck (Graham Stewart) 19. Re: hatch on foredeck (Chris Geankoplis) 20. Re: hatch on foredeck (Jesse Shumaker) 21. Re: hatch on foredeck (Art Czerwonky) 22. Re: hatch on foredeck (Todd Tavares) 23. Cabin Liner (Lowe, Rob) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2019 16:49:24 -0700 (MST) From: S/V Lark <Colealexander at hotmail.com> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Long term cruising stowage Message-ID: <1575244164482-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Can you add detail about your cargo bars under the cockpit seat? I?ve been wanting to engineer something for this. I considered rope, which would put the cockpit casting under stress compared to your system. I didn?t want to add holes until I was sure. Have you ever weighed your gear? I assume you need your cockpit plug under ordinary conditions? Alex ----- Alex Cole S/V Lark -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2019 19:31:31 -0500 From: "Graham Stewart" <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <003201d5a8a7$da7e9030$8f7bb090$@ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" The rub rails are not solid - as you can see in the attached photo - but the glass is probably thick enough to hold screws if they are installed properly. I my case I installed the chocks inboard of the rub rails where they were originally installed and could be bolted through the deck with fender washers and nuts on the inside. I don't trust screws for anything that takes a significant strain. However, I raised them up 1" on blocks of composite lumber so that the lines cleared the rub rails to avoid chafe and blemishes. The second photo shows where they were placed originally. Graham Graham Stewart Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg Sent: Sunday, December 1, 2019 5:48 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Jesse, Probably the simplest solution for your anchor rode issue would be to install chocks on the toe rail in positions that would lead the rode away from the vent. My guess is that the toe rail is solid fiberglass, so you should be able to get a solid attachment. ?Peter > On Dec 1, 2019, at 12:21 PM, Jesse Shumaker <jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > > Graham, Peter, and Mary Lou, thanks for your replies. Mary Lou, you have an > encyclopedic knowledge of R22 history. Thanks for continuing to post even > after selling your R22. I read quite a bit about different pocket cruisers > before deciding what type of boat I wanted and your chapter in the Sailing > Small book helped steer me towards a Rhodes 22. > > Since I'm installing the solar vent fan in the anchor locker hole near the > bow, I'll just see how sleeping in the v-birth goes with that in place. The > former owner wired in a fan to the electrical connection for the light above > the porta potty and I can point that towards the v-birth to help with > airflow. The former owner also left onboard another 12v fan that I could > plug in and use in the main part of the cabin if needed. I would be > reluctant to cut another hole in the deck since each additional hole comes > with it's own risk of water problems and adding a hatch would involve > additional expense. > > It appears that use of solar vent fan in the existing 3" hole near the bow > is a common approach. As I was installing mine, it occurred to me that this > could affect anchoring since the bow cleat is aft of the solar vent. For > those with a solar vent, I was wondering what approach you take for running > the rode. Here are some approaches that came to mind initially: > > - Run the rode around the outside of the bow pulpit to avoid any pressure > against the solar vent. With this approach, perhaps the rode could be run > through the u-bolt on the hull on the bow to ensure the anchor rode extends > directly in front of the boat > > -Run alongside and against the the solar vent. With this approach, perhaps > it would be possible to put some sort of protection around the solar vent > when anchoring. I was concerned that pressure from the rode against the > solar vent could cause damage to the plastic solar vent or chafe against the > sealant at the base of the solar vent. > > - Use some sort of bridal system that would go around both sides the solar > vent and perhaps outside the bow pulpit. > > Any advice on this would be appreciated. I've done very little anchoring so > I'm especially a novice in this area. > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2019 20:37:53 -0500 From: Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <A44FCA49-CE98-4339-943D-98E5303E1AE9 at sunnybeeches.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 I stand corrected. I?d follow Graham?s advice. I?m not sure what material he?s referring to when he mentions ?composite lumber?, but I think Starboard would be a good choice for raising the chocks off the deck. ?Peter > On Dec 1, 2019, at 7:31 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote: > > The rub rails are not solid - as you can see in the attached photo - but the glass is probably thick enough to hold screws if they are installed properly. I my case I installed the chocks inboard of the rub rails where they were originally installed and could be bolted through the deck with fender washers and nuts on the inside. I don't trust screws for anything that takes a significant strain. However, I raised them up 1" on blocks of composite lumber so that the lines cleared the rub rails to avoid chafe and blemishes. > > The second photo shows where they were placed originally. > > Graham > > Graham Stewart > Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 > Kingston Ontario > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg > Sent: Sunday, December 1, 2019 5:48 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck > > Jesse, > > Probably the simplest solution for your anchor rode issue would be to install chocks on the toe rail in positions that would lead the rode away from the vent. My guess is that the toe rail is solid fiberglass, so you should be able to get a solid attachment. > > ?Peter ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2019 21:04:55 -0600 From: Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Long term cruising stowage Message-ID: <CADNTwiWDkQCbvfffC2Z334EQo8S8S6-7tL9a3GyQT87s8S2nQQ at mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Hey Alex, I should have weighed it and considered it but each time when both parts came together, I didn't have a scale. I'll try to do it next time I am preping the boat next spring. One cargo bar were made from a clothes bar from an RV (oval in profile) 1/2 X 1 ", on the port side. Couldn't get anymore so I used square alum stock 3/4 or i" for the stb. side. I then cut the aft sockets to fit the profile of each. On the forward end I cut a "U" channel of appropriate dimensions. The sockets themselves were made of 1/2" HDPE. I also made cap plugs for each bar for both to avoid any sharp or scratchy ends. I use a Dremel to carve each cap. The sockets were secured with 4 SS screws and finishing washers for each. I've had them on board for the last 15 years with no issues. Be sure you settle on what dimensions you will use on the under seat storage containers including your fuel tank so you know how far to center line to place the bars. My port bar is a bit closer to center line than the stb. one based on what I stow under each seat. And yes, with all that stuff I do use a plug with an extra wrap of rescue tape to keep the water on the proper side of the hull. Good luck with the project. Chris G. ENOSIS On Sun, Dec 1, 2019 at 5:34 PM S/V Lark <Colealexander at hotmail.com> wrote: > Can you add detail about your cargo bars under the cockpit seat? I?ve > been > wanting to engineer something for this. I considered rope, which would > put > the cockpit casting under stress compared to your system. I didn?t want > to add holes until I was sure. > > Have you ever weighed your gear? I assume you need your cockpit plug under > ordinary conditions? > > Alex > > > > ----- > Alex Cole > S/V Lark > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2019 22:59:19 -0500 From: "Graham Stewart" <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <003601d5a8c4$e23be490$a6b3adb0$@ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Peter: When I refer to "composite lumber" I am just talking about composite deck boards. In my case I used some scrap pieces in a variety of places where I wanted a wood-like trim without any upkeep. This material has little strength and can't hold screws or be glued so it is relegated to situations where it can be bolted in place and has no structural purpose - like cockpit trim. I used it in a variety of places such as for blocks under the chocks. Starboard is a better product for sure in terms of strength but where strength isn't important then composite boards are much less expensive, come in a variety of colors and has a wood grain appearance on one side. It is easy to work with, is oblivious to UV and needs no maintenance. I used the composite to replace the cabin sliding hatch runners (see photo) and so far it has held up well. I don't know why it isn't used more on boats. Maybe others on the list can comment. Graham Stewart Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg Sent: Sunday, December 1, 2019 8:38 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck I stand corrected. I?d follow Graham?s advice. I?m not sure what material he?s referring to when he mentions ?composite lumber?, but I think Starboard would be a good choice for raising the chocks off the deck. ?Peter > On Dec 1, 2019, at 7:31 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote: > > The rub rails are not solid - as you can see in the attached photo - but the glass is probably thick enough to hold screws if they are installed properly. I my case I installed the chocks inboard of the rub rails where they were originally installed and could be bolted through the deck with fender washers and nuts on the inside. I don't trust screws for anything that takes a significant strain. However, I raised them up 1" on blocks of composite lumber so that the lines cleared the rub rails to avoid chafe and blemishes. > > The second photo shows where they were placed originally. > > Graham > > Graham Stewart > Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 > Kingston Ontario > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg > Sent: Sunday, December 1, 2019 5:48 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck > > Jesse, > > Probably the simplest solution for your anchor rode issue would be to install chocks on the toe rail in positions that would lead the rode away from the vent. My guess is that the toe rail is solid fiberglass, so you should be able to get a solid attachment. > > ?Peter ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 05:54:57 +0000 (UTC) From: James Nichols <jfn302 at yahoo.com> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <981891048.4904675.1575266097828 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Graham,? We are starting to see it more and more in products specially made for boats,? so of course they are expensive products rather than the fairly inexpensive composite decking.? Things like the faux teak cost nearly as much as three real thing.? Using composite decking instead would be a much better solution.? I have seen composite decking used for interior flooring a bit.?? James ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 06:10:00 +0000 (UTC) From: James Nichols <jfn302 at yahoo.com> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Long term cruising stowage Message-ID: <687185153.1412567.1575267000653 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 I would recommend using a one way scupper instead of a plug.? Pretty cheap and you don't have to fumble for the plug if you take on water.? Search Flow Max scupper on Amazon or your favorite marine retailer,? $15.00 each,? and Stan might not void your unsinkable warranty.? James ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 12:09:30 +0000 From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <BL0PR02MB4643752AAFF68F0BCEAA096C80430 at BL0PR02MB4643.namprd02.prod.outlook.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Hi All, S/V Dynamic Equilibrium has had black UV stabilized ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (ie Starboard although that brand wasn?t available back then) slides on the cabin top and the companionway hatch since 1992. I also use 2? wide Teflon tape under the companionway hatch slide as a wear surface so the hatch or cabin roof are not worn down. I had to replace the Teflon tape once in 2012, so I?m getting about 20 years of life on the wear surface. The UHMWPE slides still look new after 27+ seasons, are easy to clean, and completely maintenance free. I like the gloss black look; but, some people prefer the varnished wood look. Pound per pound UHMWPE is one of the most expensive polymers, which might explain why it isn?t used more by boat makers. The material is used a lot for whitewater kayak hulls, which are subject to tremendous abuse! The central hull on my Walker Bay RIB is made from UHMWPE. It came with a 10 year warranty, which is the longest warranty period in the inflatable industry. The RIB is now 7 years old. Except for a few minor scratches up on the bow, it still looks new Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 1, 2019, at 10:59 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote: > > ?Peter: > When I refer to "composite lumber" I am just talking about composite deck boards. In my case I used some scrap pieces in a variety of places where I wanted a wood-like trim without any upkeep. This material has little strength and can't hold screws or be glued so it is relegated to situations where it can be bolted in place and has no structural purpose - like cockpit trim. I used it in a variety of places such as for blocks under the chocks. > > Starboard is a better product for sure in terms of strength but where strength isn't important then composite boards are much less expensive, come in a variety of colors and has a wood grain appearance on one side. It is easy to work with, is oblivious to UV and needs no maintenance. > > I used the composite to replace the cabin sliding hatch runners (see photo) and so far it has held up well. > > I don't know why it isn't used more on boats. Maybe others on the list can comment. > > > Graham Stewart > Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 > Kingston Ontario > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg > Sent: Sunday, December 1, 2019 8:38 PM > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck > > I stand corrected. I?d follow Graham?s advice. I?m not sure what material he?s referring to when he mentions ?composite lumber?, but I think Starboard would be a good choice for raising the chocks off the deck. > > ?Peter > >> On Dec 1, 2019, at 7:31 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote: >> >> The rub rails are not solid - as you can see in the attached photo - but the glass is probably thick enough to hold screws if they are installed properly. I my case I installed the chocks inboard of the rub rails where they were originally installed and could be bolted through the deck with fender washers and nuts on the inside. I don't trust screws for anything that takes a significant strain. However, I raised them up 1" on blocks of composite lumber so that the lines cleared the rub rails to avoid chafe and blemishes. >> >> The second photo shows where they were placed originally. >> >> Graham >> >> Graham Stewart >> Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 >> Kingston Ontario >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg >> Sent: Sunday, December 1, 2019 5:48 PM >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck >> >> Jesse, >> >> Probably the simplest solution for your anchor rode issue would be to install chocks on the toe rail in positions that would lead the rode away from the vent. My guess is that the toe rail is solid fiberglass, so you should be able to get a solid attachment. >> >> ?Peter > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Sliding hatch with composite rails December 2013 (2).jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 326626 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20191201/0421c68a/attachment.jpg> ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 07:58:26 -0700 (MST) From: Jesse Shumaker <jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <1575298706725-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Thanks for the replies and tips. I will proceed with adding chocks as suggested since that should address my concerns. I'll post a photo of the finished results on a related post (at the link below) about adding the solar vent. I've got one minor tweak to make and the solar vent installation will be done. http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/gasket-for-mounting-solar-vent-td56219.html Graham, your photos illustrate some major projects. Did you replace the foredeck yourself? If so, did you end up ordering a replacement foredeck from GB for the installation? -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 08:02:57 -0700 (MST) From: Jesse Shumaker <jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Long term cruising stowage Message-ID: <1575298977846-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii James, thanks for the tip on the one way scupper. From the reviews on these products at first glance, it sounds like this solution has worked well for others with this type of issue. I plan to give that a try and see how it goes. -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 10:14:06 -0500 From: Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <CAB-twMOORtoXx8t5ropsQ+JO=qnRMsYPOOwuUu_GmNHV5G9PZw at mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Speaking of composites, has anyone had an opportunity to work with Coosa boards? https://www.boatoutfitters.com/coosa-composites-board?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx8aVhKCX5gIVy8DACh0irAglEAAYASACEgLiDvD_BwE Maybe our resident engineer could get a sales sample and give his opinion? Hmmmm? Todd T. tavares0947 at gmail.com On Mon, Dec 2, 2019, 9:43 AM Jesse Shumaker <jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: > Thanks for the replies and tips. I will proceed with adding chocks as > suggested since that should address my concerns. I'll post a photo of the > finished results on a related post (at the link below) about adding the > solar vent. I've got one minor tweak to make and the solar vent > installation will be done. > > > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/gasket-for-mounting-solar-vent-td56219.html > > Graham, your photos illustrate some major projects. Did you replace the > foredeck yourself? If so, did you end up ordering a replacement foredeck > from GB for the installation? > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 10:20:15 -0500 From: Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <D9E426F0-69B7-41AF-BC63-0E82AFAD5FF3 at sunnybeeches.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 The BoatworksToday YouTube channel has a couple of recent videos about working with Coosa. Here?s one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5-_fOPzlHM <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5-_fOPzlHM> Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On Dec 2, 2019, at 10:14 AM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote: > > Speaking of composites, has anyone had an opportunity to work with Coosa > boards? > > https://www.boatoutfitters.com/coosa-composites-board?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx8aVhKCX5gIVy8DACh0irAglEAAYASACEgLiDvD_BwE > > Maybe our resident engineer could get a sales sample and give his opinion? > Hmmmm? > > Todd T. > > tavares0947 at gmail.com > ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 10:17:36 -0600 From: Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> To: James Nichols <jfn302 at yahoo.com>, The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Long term cruising stowage Message-ID: <CADNTwiW_irCyXrS7_95F3f8K86AC8DaE-CbPwNx-FF=RXyg3yw at mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Hey James, Thanks for that piece of information, it sounds like the ticket. I'll check it out. A couple of times when the boat was docked, I didn't remove the plug and a thunderstorm added an inch of water that would have drained out if I hadn't left the plug in. Chris Geankoplis ENOSIS On Mon, Dec 2, 2019 at 12:10 AM James Nichols via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > I would recommend using a one way scupper instead of a plug. Pretty cheap > and you don't have to fumble for the plug if you take on water. > Search Flow Max scupper on Amazon or your favorite marine retailer, > $15.00 each, and Stan might not void your unsinkable warranty. > James > ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2019 09:30:09 -0500 From: "Graham Stewart" <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <00b701d5a9e6$2dade140$8909a3c0$@ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Jesse: Yes, I did some major restoration work which showed in part in the photo of the foredeck being removed. I literally cut the deck in front of the cabin roof and removed it. I then separated the liner, removed the core material, replaced the core with multiple layers of epoxy-coated marine plywood, and then reinstalled the deck. It might sound like a simple 4-step process but it took me all summer just to do that. Refinishing the boat was another big project. Had I know then what I know now I would have realized that all that was unnecessary. I thought that the core was in very poor condition as I knew there had been a water leak into the core, the deck was very soft when I stood on I, and I had a nest of flying ants above the liner that I assumed was an indication of severe core damage. At the time was encouraged to be so adventurous because I thought that there was a very good chance that I would end up taking the boat to the dump as being unsalvageable. I was just curious to see what was happening between the deck skin and liner. As it turned out, there was very little damage to the core. The wet spot was relatively small with no sign of rot and there was no trace of damage from the flying ants. However, the core was made of regular indoor plywood that had dried out and delaminated from the deck and liner. It had only been attached with very little strands of sealant that in most areas hadn't even touched the skins. Hence it came apart and was removed mostly with my bare hands. The individual layers of the plywood had also separated. As a result the deck had lost virtually all of its rigidity. It would have been much, much, much less trouble and probably just as effective to have dried out the wet spot and then injected thickened epoxy into the entire core and between the core and the deck skin, but without being able to see what was happening I had no idea that epoxy injection would be effective. In fact, for the side decks I used this method of epoxy injection and got very good results. There are a few tricks to getting the epoxy into the right places and being able to see the core from the cut edge was essential to that process. I posted this work and my conclusions to the list so that all those contemplating the removal of their deck might avoid a lot of work. As it turned out there were not a lot of people contemplating doing that. However, It I think it might have been useful to some to be able to see what I discovered inside the deck. Getting the deck pack on and aligned turned out to be a very difficult process - for a complete novice like me. I had made a frame to hold the foredeck in its original shape while I replaced the core but, while it helped, it didn't work very well and the new deck did not align well with the rest of the boat. (The deck is much less symmetrical than I had expected it to be.) So fitting it back on the boat was very time-consuming and required a LOT of fairing and reinforcement. In the end, however, the surgery is not visible either on the inside or outside and I have a foredeck that could puncture a concrete wall. To finish the deck I had to grind off all of the non-skid gel coat on the foredeck and side decks, apply several layers of glass and endless fairing to the entire area, paint the entire deck and cockpit, and apply a new nonskid. All in all a ridiculous amount of work. It took about four years of summer work just to this repair - although I was doing a plethora of other repairs as well. The total restoration took seven years. I note that somewhere along the line Stan stopped using plywood as the core material for the R22 and as a result the problems I had would be avoided. My advice to anyone purchasing an older R22 would be to determine what the core material is before the purchase. Graham Stewart Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker Sent: Monday, December 2, 2019 9:58 AM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Thanks for the replies and tips. I will proceed with adding chocks as suggested since that should address my concerns. I'll post a photo of the finished results on a related post (at the link below) about adding the solar vent. I've got one minor tweak to make and the solar vent installation will be done. http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/gasket-for-mounting-solar-vent-td5621 9.html Graham, your photos illustrate some major projects. Did you replace the foredeck yourself? If so, did you end up ordering a replacement foredeck from GB for the installation? -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2019 15:44:30 +0000 (UTC) From: James Nichols <jfn302 at yahoo.com> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <185718492.1623572.1575387870653 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Graham,? I started a similar project on mine.? I've come close to deciding that it was best to abandon it a few times because of my lack of time to commit to the project,? but I'm sticking with it.? I have the interior skin removed from the fore deck.? And the core material as well.? It was much the same as yours.? Barely attached,? but mine had much more water damage to the core as the forward hatch was badly deteriorated and allowed water in around the edges.? I had considered removing the deck,? turning it over and working on it upside down,? but then I saw some videos of reinstalling a deck and the amount of work it took to get the hull and deck back into the same alignment as before and decided I didn't have the equipment for that.? So,? I'm working on mine still together. Considering turning the entire boat upside down right now.?I'm going back with 1/4 ? 1/2" strips of oak,? building it back from the inside.? Pretty certain I'm going to leave the oak exposed and give it a nice stained finish.? In the end,? I expect mine with pierce that same concrete wall right next to yours.? James On Tue, Dec 3, 2019 at 8:30 AM, Graham Stewart<gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote: Jesse: Yes, I did some major restoration work which showed in part in the photo of the foredeck being removed. I literally cut the deck in front of the cabin roof and removed it. I then separated the liner, removed the core material, replaced the core with multiple layers of epoxy-coated marine plywood, and then reinstalled the deck. It might sound like a simple 4-step process but it took me all summer just to do that. Refinishing the boat was another big project. Had I know then what I know now I would have realized that all that was unnecessary. I thought that the core was in very poor condition as I knew there had been a water leak into the core, the deck was very soft when I stood on I, and I had a nest of flying ants above the liner that I assumed was an indication of severe core damage. At the time was encouraged to be so adventurous because I thought that there was a very good chance that I would end up taking the boat to the dump as being unsalvageable. I was just curious to see what was happening between the deck skin and liner. As it turned out, there was very little damage to the core. The wet spot was relatively small with no sign of rot and there was no trace of damage from the flying ants. However, the core was made of regular indoor plywood that had dried out and delaminated from the deck and liner. It had only been attached with very little strands of sealant that in most areas hadn't even touched the skins. Hence it came apart and was removed mostly with my bare hands. The individual layers of the plywood had also separated. As a result the deck had lost virtually all of its rigidity. It would have been much, much, much less trouble and probably just as effective to have dried out the wet spot and then injected thickened epoxy into the entire core and between the core and the deck skin, but without being able to see what was happening I had no idea that epoxy injection would be effective. In fact, for the side decks I used this method of epoxy injection and got very good results. There are a few tricks to getting the epoxy into the right places and being able to see the core from the cut edge was essential to that process. I posted this work and my conclusions to the list so that all those contemplating the removal of their deck might avoid a lot of work. As it turned out there were not? a lot of people contemplating doing that. However, It I think it might have been useful to some to be able to see what I discovered inside the deck. Getting the deck pack on and aligned turned out to be a very difficult process - for a complete novice like me. I had made a frame to hold the foredeck in its original shape while I replaced the core but, while it helped, it didn't work very well and the new deck did not align well with the rest of the boat. (The deck is much less symmetrical than I had expected it to be.) So fitting it back on the boat was very time-consuming and required a LOT of fairing and reinforcement. In the end, however, the surgery is not visible either on the inside or outside and I have a foredeck that could puncture a concrete wall. To finish the deck I had to grind off all of the non-skid gel coat on the foredeck and side decks, apply several layers of glass and endless fairing to the entire area, paint the entire deck and cockpit, and apply a new nonskid. All in all a ridiculous amount of work. It took about four years of summer work just to this repair - although I was doing a plethora of other repairs as well. The total restoration took seven years. I note that somewhere along the line Stan stopped using plywood as the core material for the R22 and as a result the problems I had would be avoided. My advice to anyone purchasing an older R22 would be to determine what the core material is before the purchase. Graham Stewart Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker Sent: Monday, December 2, 2019 9:58 AM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Thanks for the replies and tips.? I will proceed with adding chocks as suggested since that should address my concerns. I'll post a photo of the finished results on a related post (at the link below) about adding the solar vent.? I've got one minor tweak to make and the solar vent installation will be done. http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/gasket-for-mounting-solar-vent-td5621 9.html Graham, your photos illustrate some major projects.? Did you replace the foredeck yourself?? If so, did you end up ordering a replacement foredeck from GB for the installation? -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2019 11:37:14 -0500 From: "Graham Stewart" <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> To: "'James Nichols'" <jfn302 at yahoo.com>, "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <00c601d5a9f7$ef036110$cd0a2330$@ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" James: Sounds like a good strategy that will have a number of advantages to my approach. With adequate core material properly bonded to the deck skin there should be no need for the liner. In fact, I found that with my boat the core and liner was not bonded anywhere making the liner of little structural use anyway. The hard part is finding a way to work in such a confined area. I had to do that to join and fair the liner at the seam and that was a pain even though it was where I had the most room. Because I had removed the main bulkhead I was able to place a strip of plywood to bridge the space between the V-birth and a chair in the main cabin and then use that as a bed to lay on. But that would not help you get into the bow. Just getting into the bow area to replace deck hardware nuts and to fiberglass the hull-deck joint was difficult. Turning the boat over would make it easier to work with but would not give you more headroom. Actually I did that for another boat restoration I did so flipping the boat is quite feasible. I built a big crate for the boat that held it steady while I then turned the boat using come along winches and foam blocks to cushion the fall once the boat passed the balance point. I have pictures if you are interested. I wonder if it wouldn't be more feasible to remove (and later replace) the flotation in the bow of the boat? You might then use some plywood for a platform to work from. Even a few inches would make a big difference. I think this would be the approach I would take if I were to lose my mind and do it again. Good luck. Let us know how it works out. Graham Stewart Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of James Nichols via Rhodes22-list Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2019 10:45 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Graham, I started a similar project on mine. I've come close to deciding that it was best to abandon it a few times because of my lack of time to commit to the project, but I'm sticking with it. I have the interior skin removed from the fore deck. And the core material as well. It was much the same as yours. Barely attached, but mine had much more water damage to the core as the forward hatch was badly deteriorated and allowed water in around the edges. I had considered removing the deck, turning it over and working on it upside down, but then I saw some videos of reinstalling a deck and the amount of work it took to get the hull and deck back into the same alignment as before and decided I didn't have the equipment for that. So, I'm working on mine still together. Considering turning the entire boat upside down right now. I'm going back with 1/4 ? 1/2" strips of oak, building it back from the inside. Pretty certain I'm going to leave the oak exposed and give it a nice stained finish. In the end, I expect mine with pierce that same concrete wall right next to yours. James On Tue, Dec 3, 2019 at 8:30 AM, Graham Stewart<gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote: Jesse: Yes, I did some major restoration work which showed in part in the photo of the foredeck being removed. I literally cut the deck in front of the cabin roof and removed it. I then separated the liner, removed the core material, replaced the core with multiple layers of epoxy-coated marine plywood, and then reinstalled the deck. It might sound like a simple 4-step process but it took me all summer just to do that. Refinishing the boat was another big project. Had I know then what I know now I would have realized that all that was unnecessary. I thought that the core was in very poor condition as I knew there had been a water leak into the core, the deck was very soft when I stood on I, and I had a nest of flying ants above the liner that I assumed was an indication of severe core damage. At the time was encouraged to be so adventurous because I thought that there was a very good chance that I would end up taking the boat to the dump as being unsalvageable. I was just curious to see what was happening between the deck skin and liner. As it turned out, there was very little damage to the core. The wet spot was relatively small with no sign of rot and there was no trace of damage from the flying ants. However, the core was made of regular indoor plywood that had dried out and delaminated from the deck and liner. It had only been attached with very little strands of sealant that in most areas hadn't even touched the skins. Hence it came apart and was removed mostly with my bare hands. The individual layers of the plywood had also separated. As a result the deck had lost virtually all of its rigidity. It would have been much, much, much less trouble and probably just as effective to have dried out the wet spot and then injected thickened epoxy into the entire core and between the core and the deck skin, but without being able to see what was happening I had no idea that epoxy injection would be effective. In fact, for the side decks I used this method of epoxy injection and got very good results. There are a few tricks to getting the epoxy into the right places and being able to see the core from the cut edge was essential to that process. I posted this work and my conclusions to the list so that all those contemplating the removal of their deck might avoid a lot of work. As it turned out there were not a lot of people contemplating doing that. However, It I think it might have been useful to some to be able to see what I discovered inside the deck. Getting the deck pack on and aligned turned out to be a very difficult process - for a complete novice like me. I had made a frame to hold the foredeck in its original shape while I replaced the core but, while it helped, it didn't work very well and the new deck did not align well with the rest of the boat. (The deck is much less symmetrical than I had expected it to be.) So fitting it back on the boat was very time-consuming and required a LOT of fairing and reinforcement. In the end, however, the surgery is not visible either on the inside or outside and I have a foredeck that could puncture a concrete wall. To finish the deck I had to grind off all of the non-skid gel coat on the foredeck and side decks, apply several layers of glass and endless fairing to the entire area, paint the entire deck and cockpit, and apply a new nonskid. All in all a ridiculous amount of work. It took about four years of summer work just to this repair - although I was doing a plethora of other repairs as well. The total restoration took seven years. I note that somewhere along the line Stan stopped using plywood as the core material for the R22 and as a result the problems I had would be avoided. My advice to anyone purchasing an older R22 would be to determine what the core material is before the purchase. Graham Stewart Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 Kingston Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker Sent: Monday, December 2, 2019 9:58 AM To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Thanks for the replies and tips. I will proceed with adding chocks as suggested since that should address my concerns. I'll post a photo of the finished results on a related post (at the link below) about adding the solar vent. I've got one minor tweak to make and the solar vent installation will be done. http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/gasket-for-mounting-solar-vent-td5621 9.html Graham, your photos illustrate some major projects. Did you replace the foredeck yourself? If so, did you end up ordering a replacement foredeck from GB for the installation? -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2019 12:27:36 -0500 From: <mweisner at ebsmed.com> To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <002101d5a9fe$f57f84e0$e07e8ea0$@ebsmed.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Graham & James, I agree on removing the floatation foam in the bow. At least you would have room to work. After rebuilding my '81 R22 (replacing the cabin sole, interior structural members as well as the cockpit floor due to oil canning and delamination), I swore that I would NEVER do that much work on an old boat again ... until I purchased my '91 Rhodes. The '91 had significant storm damage after being demasted and partially submerged in salt water for some time. She had rolled to port and was held under by the dock lines. Yes, I sold the '81 and started all over again on the new to me '91. She sails beautifully and was worth the restoration effort. The Rhodes 22 is virtually indestructible (with proper restoration) and we are totally bonkers. The moral of the story is to buy a Rhodes 22 in relatively good condition and GO SAILING ... life is too short to repeat such mistakes. Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Graham Stewart Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2019 11:37 AM To: 'James Nichols' <jfn302 at yahoo.com>; 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck James: Sounds like a good strategy that will have a number of advantages to my approach. With adequate core material properly bonded to the deck skin there should be no need for the liner. In fact, I found that with my boat the core and liner was not bonded anywhere making the liner of little structural use anyway. The hard part is finding a way to work in such a confined area. I had to do that to join and fair the liner at the seam and that was a pain even though it was where I had the most room. Because I had removed the main bulkhead I was able to place a strip of plywood to bridge the space between the V-birth and a chair in the main cabin and then use that as a bed to lay on. But that would not help you get into the bow. Just getting into the bow area to replace deck hardware nuts and to fiberglass the hull-deck joint was difficult. Turning the boat over would make it easier to work with but would not give you more headroom. Actually I did that for another boat restoration I did so flipping the boat is quite feasible. I built a big crate for the boat that held it steady while I then turned the boat using come along winches and foam blocks to cushion the fall once the boat passed the balance point. I have pictures if you are interested. I wonder if it wouldn't be more feasible to remove (and later replace) the flotation in the bow of the boat? You might then use some plywood for a platform to work from. Even a few inches would make a big difference. I think this would be the approach I would take if I were to lose my mind and do it again. Good luck. Let us know how it works out. Graham Stewart Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 Kingston Ontario ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2019 13:12:53 -0500 From: "Graham Stewart" <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <00d601d5aa05$499fde70$dcdf9b50$@ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Mike: Your advice is totally rational but, unfortunately, for some of us a rational approach to boat restoration just gets ignored. Hence, we do it - repeatedly. My advice is that you should not undertake a rebuild just because you want a better boat. If that is your motivation you probably will not finish. It takes forever and probably cost far more than simply buying a boat in better condition. There are only two good reasons to undertake a major restoration: 1. you actually enjoy the process regardless of how long, expensive and/or painful it is, or 2, you believe that boats feel pain and are unhappy in their current condition. If both conditions apply, you have no choice. We are more to be pitied than scorned. Graham -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of mweisner at ebsmed.com Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2019 12:28 PM To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Graham & James, I agree on removing the floatation foam in the bow. At least you would have room to work. After rebuilding my '81 R22 (replacing the cabin sole, interior structural members as well as the cockpit floor due to oil canning and delamination), I swore that I would NEVER do that much work on an old boat again ... until I purchased my '91 Rhodes. The '91 had significant storm damage after being demasted and partially submerged in salt water for some time. She had rolled to port and was held under by the dock lines. Yes, I sold the '81 and started all over again on the new to me '91. She sails beautifully and was worth the restoration effort. The Rhodes 22 is virtually indestructible (with proper restoration) and we are totally bonkers. The moral of the story is to buy a Rhodes 22 in relatively good condition and GO SAILING ... life is too short to repeat such mistakes. Mike s/v Wind Lass ('91) Nissequogue River, NY -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Graham Stewart Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2019 11:37 AM To: 'James Nichols' <jfn302 at yahoo.com>; 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck James: Sounds like a good strategy that will have a number of advantages to my approach. With adequate core material properly bonded to the deck skin there should be no need for the liner. In fact, I found that with my boat the core and liner was not bonded anywhere making the liner of little structural use anyway. The hard part is finding a way to work in such a confined area. I had to do that to join and fair the liner at the seam and that was a pain even though it was where I had the most room. Because I had removed the main bulkhead I was able to place a strip of plywood to bridge the space between the V-birth and a chair in the main cabin and then use that as a bed to lay on. But that would not help you get into the bow. Just getting into the bow area to replace deck hardware nuts and to fiberglass the hull-deck joint was difficult. Turning the boat over would make it easier to work with but would not give you more headroom. Actually I did that for another boat restoration I did so flipping the boat is quite feasible. I built a big crate for the boat that held it steady while I then turned the boat using come along winches and foam blocks to cushion the fall once the boat passed the balance point. I have pictures if you are interested. I wonder if it wouldn't be more feasible to remove (and later replace) the flotation in the bow of the boat? You might then use some plywood for a platform to work from. Even a few inches would make a big difference. I think this would be the approach I would take if I were to lose my mind and do it again. Good luck. Let us know how it works out. Graham Stewart Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 Kingston Ontario ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2019 14:31:18 -0600 From: Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <CADNTwiWUapmTrCbO3WUwqVgs08LCftCL-XipM6eDxTS2qG0t1Q at mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" To all you restorers, I am in awe of all you guys. Amazing. I hadn't realized there were so many....what's the word.......inspired sailors out there. Chris Geankoplis Member: S.P.C.R..................Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Rhodes A.V.RA.................. Anti-Vivisection of Rhodes Association On Tue, Dec 3, 2019 at 12:12 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote: > Mike: > > Your advice is totally rational but, unfortunately, for some of us a > rational approach to boat restoration just gets ignored. Hence, we do it - > repeatedly. > > My advice is that you should not undertake a rebuild just because you want > a better boat. If that is your motivation you probably will not finish. It > takes forever and probably cost far more than simply buying a boat in > better condition. > > There are only two good reasons to undertake a major restoration: > 1. you actually enjoy the process regardless of how long, expensive and/or > painful it is, or > 2, you believe that boats feel pain and are unhappy in their current > condition. > > If both conditions apply, you have no choice. We are more to be pitied > than scorned. > > Graham > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf > Of mweisner at ebsmed.com > Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2019 12:28 PM > To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck > > Graham & James, > > I agree on removing the floatation foam in the bow. At least you would > have room to work. > > After rebuilding my '81 R22 (replacing the cabin sole, interior structural > members as well as the cockpit floor due to oil canning and delamination), > I swore that I would NEVER do that much work on an old boat again ... until > I purchased my '91 Rhodes. The '91 had significant storm damage after > being demasted and partially submerged in salt water for some time. She > had rolled to port and was held under by the dock lines. Yes, I sold the > '81 and started all over again on the new to me '91. She sails beautifully > and was worth the restoration effort. > > The Rhodes 22 is virtually indestructible (with proper restoration) and we > are totally bonkers. The moral of the story is to buy a Rhodes 22 in > relatively good condition and GO SAILING ... life is too short to repeat > such mistakes. > > Mike > s/v Wind Lass ('91) > Nissequogue River, NY > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of > Graham Stewart > Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2019 11:37 AM > To: 'James Nichols' <jfn302 at yahoo.com>; 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck > > James: > > Sounds like a good strategy that will have a number of advantages to my > approach. With adequate core material properly bonded to the deck skin > there should be no need for the liner. In fact, I found that with my boat > the core and liner was not bonded anywhere making the liner of little > structural use anyway. > > The hard part is finding a way to work in such a confined area. I had to > do that to join and fair the liner at the seam and that was a pain even > though it was where I had the most room. Because I had removed the main > bulkhead I was able to place a strip of plywood to bridge the space between > the V-birth and a chair in the main cabin and then use that as a bed to lay > on. But that would not help you get into the bow. Just getting into the bow > area to replace deck hardware nuts and to fiberglass the hull-deck joint > was difficult. > > Turning the boat over would make it easier to work with but would not give > you more headroom. Actually I did that for another boat restoration I did > so flipping the boat is quite feasible. I built a big crate for the boat > that held it steady while I then turned the boat using come along winches > and foam blocks to cushion the fall once the boat passed the balance point. > I have pictures if you are interested. > > I wonder if it wouldn't be more feasible to remove (and later replace) the > flotation in the bow of the boat? You might then use some plywood for a > platform to work from. Even a few inches would make a big difference. I > think this would be the approach I would take if I were to lose my mind and > do it again. > > Good luck. Let us know how it works out. > > > Graham Stewart > Agile 1976 Rhodes 22 > Kingston Ontario > > > > ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2019 18:52:49 -0700 (MST) From: Jesse Shumaker <jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <1575424369617-0.post at n5.nabble.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Restorers, thanks for sharing all the hard won experience on the topic of overhauling the foredeck. Very impressive work on formidable projects! I echo Chris's sentiments. Count me in as another member of of the S.P.C.R. and A.V.R.A. -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2019 01:53:46 +0000 (UTC) From: Art Czerwonky <a_czerwonky at yahoo.com> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <1022235561.5587557.1575424426935 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 The rebuild skills of this group of skippers bodes well for the future of our fleet when GB may eventually not have the capability.? The business model has thrived well under Stan's excellent leadership and business acumen. Think about it, just building one fixture, the boom room and covers has been totally satisfying for me, especially having such satisfaction of client skippers. Best,Art Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, Dec 3, 2019 at 8:37 PM, Jesse Shumaker<jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: Restorers, thanks for sharing all the hard won experience on the topic of overhauling the foredeck.? Very impressive work on formidable projects! I echo Chris's sentiments.? Count me in as another member of of the S.P.C.R. and A.V.R.A. -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2019 11:40:00 -0500 From: Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> To: a_czerwonky at yahoo.com, The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck Message-ID: <CAB-twMOwLm_iGm7PgtpnayfzLuuwJ2ZD=L3KxprGZZYgK2iMbw at mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" MJM gave me sound advice early on. I'm paraphrasing here (I saved the email but hsve time to look for it) He said.... If you consider the time, money and aggravation involved with rebuilding and restoring an older boat; especially a Rhodes 22 with all of its one-of-a-kind and one-off parts, your time and money would be better spent buying a new boat or at least, one that needs less work. I have taken two Rhodes 22s to the dump. I have videos saved somewhere of the guys on the big earth movers racing to see who could crush them first. tavares0947 at gmail.com On Tue, Dec 3, 2019, 8:53 PM Art Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > The rebuild skills of this group of skippers bodes well for the future of > our fleet when GB may eventually not have the capability. The business > model has thrived well under Stan's excellent leadership and business > acumen. Think about it, just building one fixture, the boom room and covers > has been totally satisfying for me, especially having such satisfaction of > client skippers. > Best,Art > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > On Tue, Dec 3, 2019 at 8:37 PM, Jesse Shumaker< > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: Restorers, thanks for sharing > all the hard won experience on the topic of > overhauling the foredeck. Very impressive work on formidable projects! > > I echo Chris's sentiments. Count me in as another member of of the > S.P.C.R. > and A.V.R.A. > > > > -- > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ > > ------------------------------ Message: 23 Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2019 16:40:19 +0000 From: "Lowe, Rob" <rlowe at vt.edu> To: Art Czerwonky <a_czerwonky at yahoo.com>, The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Liner Message-ID: <MN2PR05MB6941D45669B9AAB20B4FD5DFC15D0 at MN2PR05MB6941.namprd05.prod.outlook.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Speaking of removing liners, has anyone attempted/figured out how to remove the liner in in the cabin? I'm trying to run some wiring from my electrical panel to the mast area and would prefer not to cut into the liner. Thanks - rob -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Art Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2019 8:54 PM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck The rebuild skills of this group of skippers bodes well for the future of our fleet when GB may eventually not have the capability.? The business model has thrived well under Stan's excellent leadership and business acumen. Think about it, just building one fixture, the boom room and covers has been totally satisfying for me, especially having such satisfaction of client skippers. Best,Art Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, Dec 3, 2019 at 8:37 PM, Jesse Shumaker<jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote: Restorers, thanks for sharing all the hard won experience on the topic of overhauling the foredeck.? Very impressive work on formidable projects! I echo Chris's sentiments.? Count me in as another member of of the S.P.C.R. and A.V.R.A. -- Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Rhodes22-list mailing list Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list ------------------------------ End of Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4159, Issue 1 **********************************************
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