Hi All,

S/V Dynamic Equilibrium has had black UV stabilized ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (ie Starboard although that brand wasn’t available back then) slides on the cabin top and the companionway hatch since 1992.  I also use 2” wide Teflon tape under the companionway hatch slide as a wear surface so the hatch or cabin roof are not worn down.  I had to replace the Teflon tape once in 2012, so I’m getting about 20 years of life on the wear surface.  The UHMWPE slides still look new after 27+ seasons, are easy to clean, and completely maintenance free.  I like the gloss black look; but, some people prefer the varnished wood look.  Pound per pound UHMWPE is one of the most expensive polymers, which might explain why it isn’t used more by boat makers.  The material is used a lot for whitewater kayak hulls, which are subject to tremendous abuse!  The central hull on my Walker Bay RIB is made from UHMWPE.  It came with a 10 year warranty, which is the longest warranty period in the inflatable industry. The RIB is now 7 years old.  Except for a few minor scratches up on the bow, it still looks new

Roger Pihlaja 
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 1, 2019, at 10:59 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> 
> ?Peter:
> When I refer to "composite lumber" I am just talking about composite deck boards. In my case I used some scrap pieces in a variety of places where I wanted a wood-like trim without any upkeep. This material has little strength and can't hold screws or be glued so it is relegated to situations where it can be bolted in place and has no structural purpose - like cockpit trim. I used it in a variety of places such as for blocks under the chocks. 
> 
> Starboard is a better product for sure in terms of strength but where strength isn't important then composite boards are much less expensive, come in a variety of colors and has a wood grain appearance on one side. It is easy to work with, is oblivious to UV and needs no maintenance.
> 
> I used the composite to replace the cabin sliding hatch runners (see photo) and so far it has held up well. 
> 
> I don't know why it isn't used more on boats. Maybe others on the list can comment.
> 
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
> Kingston Ontario
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg
> Sent: Sunday, December 1, 2019 8:38 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck
> 
> I stand corrected.  I’d follow Graham’s advice.  I’m not sure what material he’s referring to when he mentions ‘composite lumber’, but I think Starboard would be a good choice for raising the chocks off the deck.
> 
> —Peter 
> 
>> On Dec 1, 2019, at 7:31 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
>> 
>> The rub rails are not solid - as you can see in the attached photo - but the glass is probably thick enough to hold screws if they are installed properly. I my case I installed the chocks inboard of the rub rails where they were originally installed and could be bolted through the deck with fender washers and nuts on the inside. I don't trust screws for anything that takes a significant strain. However, I raised them up 1" on blocks of composite lumber so that the lines cleared the rub rails to avoid chafe and blemishes. 
>> 
>> The second photo shows where they were placed originally.
>> 
>> Graham
>> 
>> Graham Stewart
>> Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
>> Kingston Ontario
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg
>> Sent: Sunday, December 1, 2019 5:48 PM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hatch on foredeck
>> 
>> Jesse,
>> 
>> Probably the simplest solution for your anchor rode issue would be to install chocks on the toe rail in positions that would lead the rode away from the vent.  My guess is that the toe rail is solid fiberglass, so you should be able to get a solid attachment.
>> 
>> —Peter
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