Allyn:
I replaced my upper attachment  with a 3/4" flush head plastic mushroom cap
thru-hull. I cut the proper size hole with a step bit and cut back two
opposing sided of the cap to fit the shape of the drain track of the
fiberglass. I filled any gaps with 3M 4200 sealant. It works fine. Don't use
3M 5200 sealant. It is overkill and you will need to take an axe to your
boat to get it apart if you need to replace it. You may need to remove some
fiberglass to be able to tighten the nut on the upper fitting and to tighten
the hose clamp. You can get white plastic caps at your chandler that can be
used to snap into and cover the hole if it looks unsightly.

The barb on the centerboard housing needs to be the same size - 3/4" for the
tube to fit. It might be necessary to cut off the oversize fitting that is
there now, fiberglass over the hole and insert a new thru-hull of the proper
size. Then you can use plastic tubing that will fit properly and be flexible
enough to push over the barbs with the line already inside. 


Graham Stewart
Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
Kingston Ontario

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of
Allyn Baskerville
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2019 7:00 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Problem with tube to centerboard cap - unsure what
to do

As you all can tell with my posts, I'm new to sailing, and I really, really
want to get this boat in the water. I've had the inside torn apart for 2-3
weeks, and I'm held up by the tube to the centerboard cap. I've spent
multiple evenings trying to get the tube in place that the line to the
centerboard goes through. The problem is that the size of the hole in the
centerboard cap is 1-1/8" and the outside diameter of the hole in the outlet
that goes up to the cockpit is slightly larger than 1-1/4". I believe that
is why the previous owner had one tube inside the other, but it leaked
pretty badly. I purchased various sizes and types of tubes, I've heated them
with boiling water as well as a hot air gun for heat shrink tubing. The
problem is, whatever tubing I can get around the upper hole is too loose for
the connection at the centerboard cap. I've included a link for the
fiberglass on the upper end the tube connects to, and there are lots of gaps
in the fiberglass layers. I presume this is why I'm having the problem. I'm
literally at my wits end, and I'm contemplating using a Dremel tool and
cutting off the upper connection and installing a through hull fitting.
However, given how the through hull won't be resting against a flat surface,
I'm hesitant about doing this. I'm not sure how well caulk filling in the
void will work. Can anyone offer a solution?

https://1drv.ms/u/s!ApL2Pe-LKYIig0lr50d4ejULV_Rl?e=ea6tVz

Thank you very much!