Wow! Thanks for the info. Sounds like that was quite a project. Hopefully
all I will need to do is replace the gasket. I like the idea of bolts and
washers.

On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 12:18 AM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:

> Mitch:
>
> Replacing the gasket is not difficult but is a major PITA. Any
> reconstruction of the cap or flange is also a possibility and adds to the
> pain. Good idea to check it out in the water before you take it all apart.
>
> Eventually, however, it will probably be necessary to do this job if for
> no other reason than to replace the line and pulleys.
> On my boat the removal of the cap was made infinitely worse by virtue of
> the fact that some previous owner used 5200 sealant and then put fiberglass
> over the top of the cap. As a result I broke the cap in two pieces getting
> it off and damaged the housing flange with large gouges. Hopefully you will
> not face that issue. No one else has reported a similar problem on this
> list that I have seen.
>
> I would replace the screws with stainless steel bolts and use large fender
> washers and lock washers.I think it is better to punch clean holes in the
> gasket rather than drilling them.
>
> I did not think I had access to the proper gasket material and substituted
> other neoprene material that I thought would work.  As a result I could not
> get a perfect seal without using a sealant. I chose to use butyl tape as it
> makes an excellent seal but has very low adhesive properties and so is easy
> to remove when the time comes. Butyl is not rated for underwater use but so
> far has worked well for me in fresh water. Better to get the proper gasket
> material.
>
> BTW, I was able to remove the cap and the centerboard while the boat was
> on its trailer and have not heard of others needing to raise the boat for
> that purpose but keep in mind that there appears to be a lot of variation
> in the construction of the boat over the years and what works for one
> person might not work in another situation. My boat is a 1976 model so it
> has the older version of the centerboard. However, I would try to do the
> work while on the trailer first and raise the boat only if that becomes
> necessary.
>
> While removing the centerboard and fixing the enclosure cap and flange
> could be done while on the trailer, I discovered that I had serious damage
> to the bottom of the keel housing with a large crack that went almost
> entirely around the housing slot. So in the end I had to build a huge lift
> so that I could work under the keel. My lift was a major project in itself
> and probably overkill as I later learned that one person was able to
> support the stern of the boat on a picnic table and support the front with
> some sort of sawhorse arrangement. So there are definitely easier ways to
> do this than what I did. The advantage of the lift is that I can raise the
> boat high enough (5' between the bottom of the keel and the ground) to work
> more comfortably under the keel and can also use it for my other two boats.
> However, it is a very large structure. I can send pictures of the lift if
> anyone is interested.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
> Kingston Ontario
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf
> Of Mitch Mitchell
> Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2019 10:34 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing Centerboard Gasket
>
> Thanks JP! Did you have to lower the centerboard to replace the gasket? If
> that' the case then I would have to get the boat off of the trailer. The
> screws in the cap look good (not rusty) but there are no washers. I haven't
> removed the top cap yet but thought I would put the boat in the water once
> more with the floorboard out so I could see if it was leaking. MM
>
> On Sun, Sep 29, 2019 at 7:14 PM JP Dempsey <joedempsey at hughes.net> wrote:
>
> > Mitch, I had the same problem last year and finally determined that the
> > centerboard gasket was the problem. They dry rot eventually. It is a
> > "fairly" simple job that I ended up doing myself, but you'll have to
> > purchase a new gasket. I would have purchased from Stan but the
> centerboard
> > trunk cover was cracked and needed repair that I was not willing to
> > attempt.
> > Also you want to be sure that you drill holes that will match the
> existing
> > holes in you CB trunk flange and cover. I have a large collection of
> photos
> > that I took during the process. Removal of the trunk cover begins with
> > removing the port berth/settee and the supporting structure in front of
> the
> > companionway. You'll need to remove the center section of the floorboard
> > (sole) that runs from the inspection hatch back to beneath the
> > companionway.
> > (I removed all of the floorboards and found that they were severely
> molded.
> > These I replaced with new marine plywood treated with wood preservative
> and
> > multiple coats of urethane marine varnish.) You will need to lower the
> CB.
> > I
> > placed a block of wood underneath. Also you'll have to remove the painter
> > tube between the companionway and the CB cover. If there is any rust on
> the
> > machine screws, replace them. McMaster-Carr is the best source. Use only
> > 316
> > grade stainless steel. Also if your CB gasket is not fastened using
> fender
> > washers (mine wasn't) get them for both above and below the flange. I did
> > all of this work while on the trailer during the off season. I believe
> its
> > also wise to re-seat all of the port lites and  if you ever replace the
> rub
> > rail, re-caulk the topside/hull joint with 4200 Sealant. I'm attaching
> > photos that I hope will help.
> > <
> >
> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/Cabin_Sole_Original_Sub_Floor_Before.jpg
> >
> >
> > <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/CB_Cover_w_Pump.jpg>
> > <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/CB_Gasket.jpg>
> > <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/Bilge_2_After.jpg>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----
> > JP Dempsey
> > s/v Respite
> > Rhodes 22 1989/2005
> > Marshall,VA
> > --
> > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/
> >
>
>