Thanks Joe for taking us along.  You are my favorite travel writer.  I need a map of Italy to see where you are and follow you along.  I was taught by nuns who must have been in that order!   "Go sit in the corner" takes on new meaning. For me, a guy still looking for where the bilge is located, your description of what needed to be repaired and updated was an education in itself.  Safe journeys to you and Alice!  Joe Riley S/V Second Wind, Lake Hartwell, SC