Ed
You are a  brave man and  driven man to follow my advise but kudos to you for the try.
There are supposed to be two blocks on the trialing edge of your CB blade, they are imported from England and can be found with some research.
I can probably dig up the name and part number given enough time. You can see them installed in the pic of the blade with the training edge blocks in place. They are attached to a slot in the trailing edge and have a thin tab that fits in the slot and is held in place with a small machine bolt.
There are also two Micro blocks hanging from pad-eyes on the underside side of your CB Cap. For these I used micro blocks from Harken.
I am attaching photos from  2nd CB rebuild.
For the 2d rebuild, the cp was destroyed and Stan was still communicating. I think he dug up the mold and made me a new cap.  I had to alter it to install the SS turning”pin’, which I had to drill thru the sides, install the pin and sleeve and fiberglass the pin into the CB cap walls.
I also had to install the two small pad-eyes that hold the Micro-blocks. The pad Eyes are bolted through the top of the cap with #10 SS machine Screws. I used the old cap for a template for adding these needed items. The line can be any low-stretch, quality, double braid yacht line, but the most important aspect is that it be as flexible as possible.

I don’t know the history of the CB at GB, but I suspect the CB was redesigned because it is vulnerable to damage and in  opinion the weakest link in the R22.
I doubt that Stan changed the rigging for the old style board  before he redesigned the whole system.
My rebuilt system works very well and is fairly easy to lift. Best of Luck
Ric
PS - the CB shoaled tract fully into the trunk.
Dadventure
Hampton Bays, NY


Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164




New CAp with attachemtn .jpg

micro blocks .jpg

trailing edge blocks .jpg

Turning pin .jpg

Turning pin & thru hull.jpg

ready to install .jpg

ready to install 2.jpg

> On Jul 21, 2022, at 4:14 PM, Ed McNamara <edmc18 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Wow, the timing on this is perfect. You may have seen this photo of Scholar
> headed into the yard for hull work. I was just informed that my pendant
> goes straight up, bypassing the blocks. No wonder it’s so hard to pull up!
> I’m being asked if there is a way, from underneath, (the boat is on blocks
> and could be put back on the lift if necessary, to raise it higher) to
> thread a new pendant through the blocks. I sent them the diagram showing
> the correct routing. My question is, is it possible to do that threading
> from underneath, rather than by removing the dreaded cap? Please say “yes”
> and provide directions 😩. It is NOT diamondboard.
> 
> Thanks,
> Ed McNamara
> s/v Scholar
> 
> On Sat, Jul 16, 2022 at 5:28 PM Chris on LBI <cknell at vt.edu> wrote:
> 
>> An update:
>> Yesterday I talked myself into the possibility of using the damaged line
>> to pull the new line through the pulley system as Ric described. This
>> morning at high tide I lowered the centerboard, put on my mask, and dove
>> under the boat to determine if the knot on the centerboard was
>> accessible with the centerboard down as Ric suggested. I have the old
>> centerboard on my boat. My preconceived idea of what I was going to see
>> was based on the attached diagram that I found on the list.
>> 
>> I was surprised to find a single block on the centerboard and no knot.
>> The pendant runs from the cockpit, through the feed tube to the to this
>> block on the aft side of the centerboard and then vertically back up
>> into the centerboard trunk where I cannot see or feel how it is
>> attached. That is, I don't have the multiple block system shown in the
>> attached diagram. I also don't have access to the underwater-end of the
>> pendant. Since I don't, I have no way of using the technique that Ric
>> described to replace the line. This setup gives me only 2:1 mechanical
>> advantage when raising the centerboard which explains why it is not as
>> easy to raise as described in some old reviews of the Rhodes.
>> 
>> I did apply rigging tape in an attempt to attach the braided outer
>> covering to the core of the damaged rope. After 5 or 6 up/down cycles,
>> it seems to be holding. This should reduce the chaff on the core of the
>> damaged line.
>> 
>> So now I'm wondering what I will find when I open the centerboard cap.
>> Will there be two unused blocks attached to the cap as shown in the
>> attached diagram or was the boat intended to have a diamond board that
>> was either never installed or removed at some point? Did Stan move away
>> from the multiple block system as part of his continuous improvement
>> process (simpler is better)? Does anyone else know if they have this
>> arrangement on their boat (old centerboard, single block, 2:1 mechanical
>> advantage)?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Chris
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On 7/12/2022 9:34 AM, Ric Stott wrote:
>>> Chris - you might be able to limp through the season by using some good
>> quality rigging tape for your line.
>>> I did that the first year I had Dadventure.
>>> There’s more potentially good news.
>>> I was under my boat on Sunday cleaning the slime off the bottom and
>> notice that the blocks are exposed when the board is down.
>>> I believe it’s possible to replace the line without removing the CB cap
>> - even better, while the boat is in the water.
>>> This is a theory, not proven fact and there is some risk it will not
>> work but it might save you a haul-out.
>>> Once you identify and purchase your new 1/4" double braid very flexible
>> line, you could tape it to the original at the dry end.
>>> Line up the but ends and tape the two lines together as smoothly as
>> possible.
>>> Drop the board to it full low position.
>>> With a helper on board and good lungs for your snorkel - - -  or scuba
>> gear -
>>> Dive under the boat and carefully pull the line(s) through all the
>> blocks with the new line taped to the old.
>>> I believe the 'tie hole' on the trialing edge of the CB blade is
>> accessible from under the boat when the Board is down.
>>> Check that the tie hole is reachable before you begin this experiment.
>>> Once the line is through all the blocks, cut the tape joint, remove the
>> old line from the hole in the trailing edge and tie the new line on.
>>> Worse case - the board loses its retrieving line and remains in the full
>> down position.
>>> You can retrieve the boat onto the trailer with the board fully down or
>> you can lift it manually from underwater (in the shadows) and stick a wedge
>> between the CB and trunk to operate the boat and trailer it at will.
>>> Good luck and let us know.
>>> Ric
>>> Dadventure.
>>> I believe this could be done from a travel lift on land as well.
>>> 
>>> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com
>>> O -631-283-1777
>>> C- 516-965-3164
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Jul 12, 2022, at 8:16 AM, Christopher Knell <cknell at vt.edu> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>     After a terrific sail yesterday, we found as we returned to our
>> slip
>>>> that the outer braid of the centerboard pendant had separated at the
>> point
>>>> where it is cleated in the cockpit. The thin core was intact so we were
>>>> able to hoist the centerboard up into the centerboard trunk. I have
>>>> attached (hopefully) a photo of what the pendant looks like currently.
>> I am
>>>> obviously going to have to replace it. After spending a few hours on the
>>>> list researching the advice provided, I think I know what I have to do.
>>>> However I still have a couple of questions that I'm hoping y'all can
>> help
>>>> me with. I have the old-style centerboard on a boat that was originally
>>>> built in 1986 (I think) and refurbished sometime around 2007.
>>>> 
>>>> 1. Stan mentions in a post from 2001: "The new cb pennants are rugged
>> lines
>>>> and really can last almost as long as the boat." Does anyone know what
>> type
>>>> of rope should be used and where it can be purchased?
>>>> 
>>>> 2. I think someone states in a post that the length of the pendant for
>> the
>>>> original centerboard should be about 12 feet. Can anyone confirm this?
>> I'd
>>>> like to have the material on-hand before pulling the boat out of the
>> water.
>>>> 
>>>> 3. Does the rope in the attached photo appear to be the same as that
>> used
>>>> on newer Rhodes (the rugged lines Stan mentioned)?
>>>> 
>>>> 4. The braided outer covering of my pendant failed. Would anyone be
>> willing
>>>> to venture a guess as to how many more up/down cycles I might get with
>> the
>>>> twisted core? I suspect bunching of the outer braid may present a
>> problem
>>>> with the blocks before the core fails. Does anyone have experience with
>>>> this? I'm hoping that I can get a few more days of sailing in before
>>>> pulling the boat for the repair.
>>>> 
>>>> We managed to locate our Rhodes 22 Owner's Manual this afternoon. In it
>> is
>>>> a paragraph titled "SERVICING THE CENTERBOARD". I could not find this
>> text
>>>> on the Internet and so quote it here for posterity (from an undated
>> copy of
>>>> the manual):
>>>> 
>>>> *SERVICING THE CENTERBOARD*
>>>> You will rarely, if ever, have to service your centerboard. On the
>> latest
>>>> models if you ever do want to replace the control line, with the boat
>> on a
>>>> crane or jacked above its trailer so the board can be partially lowered
>> (or
>>>> on a beach on its side) simply drop the new line in from the cockpit and
>>>> fasten to the hole on the back edge of the diamondboard. Conventional
>>>> boards can be done on the trailer but the center plywood floor panel
>> must
>>>> be unscrewed and the 50 or so cb bolts removed. Gently lift up the cap
>> so
>>>> as not to damage the reusable neoprene gasket. Release the cb line from
>> its
>>>> cockpit cam cleat and the cb can then be lifted from the cb trunk. On
>> older
>>>> boards the line runs through two blocks on the cb and a turning bar in
>> the
>>>> cap to provide a mechanical advantage. Therefore a new line must be
>>>> installed to follow the same path pattern. If you ever have to do this
>>>> chore, take advantage of the opportunity to put fresh anti-fouling
>> paint on
>>>> the cb trunk walls as well as on the removed cb.
>>>> 
>>>> Many thanks in advance for answers to the questions,
>>>> 
>>>> Chris on LBI
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