Also, you’ll notice in the photo that, while I assumed that I’d pulled the centerboard all the way up, you’ll see that it’s hanging below the keel. I assume this is because of the odd angle from which the pendant is being pulled when not utilizing the blocks?


image_67209729.JPG

On Thu, Jul 21, 2022 at 4:14 PM Ed McNamara <edmc18 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Wow, the timing on this is perfect. You may have seen this photo of
> Scholar headed into the yard for hull work. I was just informed that my
> pendant goes straight up, bypassing the blocks. No wonder it’s so hard to
> pull up! I’m being asked if there is a way, from underneath, (the boat is
> on blocks and could be put back on the lift if necessary, to raise it
> higher) to thread a new pendant through the blocks. I sent them the diagram
> showing the correct routing. My question is, is it possible to do that
> threading from underneath, rather than by removing the dreaded cap? Please
> say “yes” and provide directions 😩. It is NOT diamondboard.
>
> Thanks,
> Ed McNamara
> s/v Scholar
>
> On Sat, Jul 16, 2022 at 5:28 PM Chris on LBI <cknell at vt.edu> wrote:
>
>> An update:
>> Yesterday I talked myself into the possibility of using the damaged line
>> to pull the new line through the pulley system as Ric described. This
>> morning at high tide I lowered the centerboard, put on my mask, and dove
>> under the boat to determine if the knot on the centerboard was
>> accessible with the centerboard down as Ric suggested. I have the old
>> centerboard on my boat. My preconceived idea of what I was going to see
>> was based on the attached diagram that I found on the list.
>>
>> I was surprised to find a single block on the centerboard and no knot.
>> The pendant runs from the cockpit, through the feed tube to the to this
>> block on the aft side of the centerboard and then vertically back up
>> into the centerboard trunk where I cannot see or feel how it is
>> attached. That is, I don't have the multiple block system shown in the
>> attached diagram. I also don't have access to the underwater-end of the
>> pendant. Since I don't, I have no way of using the technique that Ric
>> described to replace the line. This setup gives me only 2:1 mechanical
>> advantage when raising the centerboard which explains why it is not as
>> easy to raise as described in some old reviews of the Rhodes.
>>
>> I did apply rigging tape in an attempt to attach the braided outer
>> covering to the core of the damaged rope. After 5 or 6 up/down cycles,
>> it seems to be holding. This should reduce the chaff on the core of the
>> damaged line.
>>
>> So now I'm wondering what I will find when I open the centerboard cap.
>> Will there be two unused blocks attached to the cap as shown in the
>> attached diagram or was the boat intended to have a diamond board that
>> was either never installed or removed at some point? Did Stan move away
>> from the multiple block system as part of his continuous improvement
>> process (simpler is better)? Does anyone else know if they have this
>> arrangement on their boat (old centerboard, single block, 2:1 mechanical
>> advantage)?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Chris
>>
>>
>>
>> On 7/12/2022 9:34 AM, Ric Stott wrote:
>> > Chris - you might be able to limp through the season by using some
>> good  quality rigging tape for your line.
>> > I did that the first year I had Dadventure.
>> > There’s more potentially good news.
>> > I was under my boat on Sunday cleaning the slime off the bottom and
>> notice that the blocks are exposed when the board is down.
>> > I believe it’s possible to replace the line without removing the CB cap
>> - even better, while the boat is in the water.
>> > This is a theory, not proven fact and there is some risk it will not
>> work but it might save you a haul-out.
>> > Once you identify and purchase your new 1/4" double braid very flexible
>> line, you could tape it to the original at the dry end.
>> > Line up the but ends and tape the two lines together as smoothly as
>> possible.
>> > Drop the board to it full low position.
>> > With a helper on board and good lungs for your snorkel - - -  or scuba
>> gear -
>> > Dive under the boat and carefully pull the line(s) through all the
>> blocks with the new line taped to the old.
>> > I believe the 'tie hole' on the trialing edge of the CB blade is
>> accessible from under the boat when the Board is down.
>> > Check that the tie hole is reachable before you begin this experiment.
>> > Once the line is through all the blocks, cut the tape joint, remove the
>> old line from the hole in the trailing edge and tie the new line on.
>> > Worse case - the board loses its retrieving line and remains in the
>> full down position.
>> > You can retrieve the boat onto the trailer with the board fully down or
>> you can lift it manually from underwater (in the shadows) and stick a wedge
>> between the CB and trunk to operate the boat and trailer it at will.
>> > Good luck and let us know.
>> > Ric
>> > Dadventure.
>> > I believe this could be done from a travel lift on land as well.
>> >
>> > Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>> > ric at stottarchitecture.com
>> > O -631-283-1777
>> > C- 516-965-3164
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >> On Jul 12, 2022, at 8:16 AM, Christopher Knell <cknell at vt.edu> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>      After a terrific sail yesterday, we found as we returned to our
>> slip
>> >> that the outer braid of the centerboard pendant had separated at the
>> point
>> >> where it is cleated in the cockpit. The thin core was intact so we were
>> >> able to hoist the centerboard up into the centerboard trunk. I have
>> >> attached (hopefully) a photo of what the pendant looks like currently.
>> I am
>> >> obviously going to have to replace it. After spending a few hours on
>> the
>> >> list researching the advice provided, I think I know what I have to do.
>> >> However I still have a couple of questions that I'm hoping y'all can
>> help
>> >> me with. I have the old-style centerboard on a boat that was originally
>> >> built in 1986 (I think) and refurbished sometime around 2007.
>> >>
>> >> 1. Stan mentions in a post from 2001: "The new cb pennants are rugged
>> lines
>> >> and really can last almost as long as the boat." Does anyone know what
>> type
>> >> of rope should be used and where it can be purchased?
>> >>
>> >> 2. I think someone states in a post that the length of the pendant for
>> the
>> >> original centerboard should be about 12 feet. Can anyone confirm this?
>> I'd
>> >> like to have the material on-hand before pulling the boat out of the
>> water.
>> >>
>> >> 3. Does the rope in the attached photo appear to be the same as that
>> used
>> >> on newer Rhodes (the rugged lines Stan mentioned)?
>> >>
>> >> 4. The braided outer covering of my pendant failed. Would anyone be
>> willing
>> >> to venture a guess as to how many more up/down cycles I might get with
>> the
>> >> twisted core? I suspect bunching of the outer braid may present a
>> problem
>> >> with the blocks before the core fails. Does anyone have experience with
>> >> this? I'm hoping that I can get a few more days of sailing in before
>> >> pulling the boat for the repair.
>> >>
>> >> We managed to locate our Rhodes 22 Owner's Manual this afternoon. In
>> it is
>> >> a paragraph titled "SERVICING THE CENTERBOARD". I could not find this
>> text
>> >> on the Internet and so quote it here for posterity (from an undated
>> copy of
>> >> the manual):
>> >>
>> >> *SERVICING THE CENTERBOARD*
>> >> You will rarely, if ever, have to service your centerboard. On the
>> latest
>> >> models if you ever do want to replace the control line, with the boat
>> on a
>> >> crane or jacked above its trailer so the board can be partially
>> lowered (or
>> >> on a beach on its side) simply drop the new line in from the cockpit
>> and
>> >> fasten to the hole on the back edge of the diamondboard. Conventional
>> >> boards can be done on the trailer but the center plywood floor panel
>> must
>> >> be unscrewed and the 50 or so cb bolts removed. Gently lift up the cap
>> so
>> >> as not to damage the reusable neoprene gasket. Release the cb line
>> from its
>> >> cockpit cam cleat and the cb can then be lifted from the cb trunk. On
>> older
>> >> boards the line runs through two blocks on the cb and a turning bar in
>> the
>> >> cap to provide a mechanical advantage. Therefore a new line must be
>> >> installed to follow the same path pattern. If you ever have to do this
>> >> chore, take advantage of the opportunity to put fresh anti-fouling
>> paint on
>> >> the cb trunk walls as well as on the removed cb.
>> >>
>> >> Many thanks in advance for answers to the questions,
>> >>
>> >> Chris on LBI
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