Chris, Don't know how long that pennant will last, but think you should assume that there's red flashing warning light telling you to "stop engine"!You can do this while on your trailer, and if you prepare, which it sounds like you want to  it's a one day job. As per the instructions you posted, you will need to open up the center board trunk. Start by removing the center plywood floor section, then the cap which is fastened down to secure the neoprene e gasket. Good time to replace screws that are rusted. Make sure that the screws have fender washers above and below. Because the space is so tight, holding the nuts is tedious and uncomfortable. I used a small set of vice grips that held when turned against the parallel stringers. Once you have all of the screws removed, carefully lift the fiberglass cap. It is fragile, so don't force it. If you do, IT WILL BREAK! ALSO,  inspect your gasket for cracking. Plan to replace it before you begin, or you will end up NOT finishing in a day. Order from Stan or one of the sources cited on The List. If you end up not needing it, you'll have a spare. Removing the tube from cockpit to CB trunk is self explanatory.  You line should be 1/4" double braided dacron because it doesn't stretch. I wouldn't use hardware store rope. I'd get a good quality because it's going to spend a lot of time in the water. Here are a couple pictures of what you'll see. And a diagram of the routing.Good luck,Joe Dempsey SV RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone

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-------- Original message --------From: Christopher Knell <cknell at vt.edu> Date: 7/12/22  8:17 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard Pendant Questions      After a terrific sail yesterday, we found as we returned to our slipthat the outer braid of the centerboard pendant had separated at the pointwhere it is cleated in the cockpit. The thin core was intact so we wereable to hoist the centerboard up into the centerboard trunk. I haveattached (hopefully) a photo of what the pendant looks like currently. I amobviously going to have to replace it. After spending a few hours on thelist researching the advice provided, I think I know what I have to do.However I still have a couple of questions that I'm hoping y'all can helpme with. I have the old-style centerboard on a boat that was originallybuilt in 1986 (I think) and refurbished sometime around 2007.1. Stan mentions in a post from 2001: "The new cb pennants are rugged linesand really can last almost as long as the boat." Does anyone know what typeof rope should be used and where it can be purchased?2. I think someone states in a post that the length of the pendant for theoriginal centerboard should be about 12 feet. Can anyone confirm this? I'dlike to have the material on-hand before pulling the boat out of the water.3. Does the rope in the attached photo appear to be the same as that usedon newer Rhodes (the rugged lines Stan mentioned)?4. The braided outer covering of my pendant failed. Would anyone be willingto venture a guess as to how many more up/down cycles I might get with thetwisted core? I suspect bunching of the outer braid may present a problemwith the blocks before the core fails. Does anyone have experience withthis? I'm hoping that I can get a few more days of sailing in beforepulling the boat for the repair.We managed to locate our Rhodes 22 Owner's Manual this afternoon. In it isa paragraph titled "SERVICING THE CENTERBOARD". I could not find this texton the Internet and so quote it here for posterity (from an undated copy ofthe manual):*SERVICING THE CENTERBOARD*You will rarely, if ever, have to service your centerboard. On the latestmodels if you ever do want to replace the control line, with the boat on acrane or jacked above its trailer so the board can be partially lowered (oron a beach on its side) simply drop the new line in from the cockpit andfasten to the hole on the back edge of the diamondboard. Conventionalboards can be done on the trailer but the center plywood floor panel mustbe unscrewed and the 50 or so cb bolts removed. Gently lift up the cap soas not to damage the reusable neoprene gasket. Release the cb line from itscockpit cam cleat and the cb can then be lifted from the cb trunk. On olderboards the line runs through two blocks on the cb and a turning bar in thecap to provide a mechanical advantage. Therefore a new line must beinstalled to follow the same path pattern. If you ever have to do thischore, take advantage of the opportunity to put fresh anti-fouling paint onthe cb trunk walls as well as on the removed cb.Many thanks in advance for answers to the questions,Chris on LBI-------------- next part --------------A non-text attachment was scrubbed...Name: CB Pendant.jpgType: image/jpegSize: 65010 bytesDesc: not availableURL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20220712/2f1bc5be/attachment.jpg>